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“I’LL PUT A GIRDLE ROUND 

About the Earth in 
forty Minutes." — Puck. 


Westward 



Mriy 1, 1897. 








SECOND COPY. 


QlS 


v 

*( 


62566 


Copyright, 1897. 

By E. L. LOMAX, General Passenger and Ticket Agent, 
Union Pacific System, 

Omaha, Neb. 














PERTINENT SUGGESTIONS. 


Mandarin rr 
Official Ores 
China. 



APAN is very lovely in the autumn, when, during October 
and November — except that the trees are not in verdure 
clad, but have begun to wear their autumnal tints — the 


country and the weather resemble an early English sum¬ 
mer. April, May, and June are temperate. July, Aug¬ 
ust, and September are hot. 


In China, where travelers most resort, the temperature from 


October to April is agreeable, and at some places, as at Shanghai, 
very cold in winter. The wet season lasts from May to August; 
then to October or November hot weather prevails, with occa¬ 
sional typhoons and cyclones. 

The cold season of India is short, extending only from 
November to the end of February, but in the hill stations dur¬ 
ing the summer, from April to October, lovely climates are 
experienced. 

Egypt, of course, must be visited in winter, November to 
February, when anything more lovely than the climate of 
Luxor it is difficult to imagine. 

March, April, and May are the best times for traveling in 
Palestine. March, April, 
and May are good 
months to spend in 
Italy. June, July, 




and August are good 
months to spend in 
Switzerland. 












Summer 

Baggage. 


Letters of Credit, Etc. — Travelers will find letters of 
credit and circular notes a convenient form in which to carry 
funds. They are cashed at any bank and by banking- corres¬ 
pondents in all parts of the world. 

Passports. — Travelers round the world should provide them¬ 
selves with passports, which, if required for passing through 
Turkish or Egyptian territory, should be provided with Turk¬ 
ish visa. A Greek visa is also necessary for travelers visiting 
Greece. 

Baggage. — Baggage should consist of one steamer trunk 
and hand-bag, marked with the owner’s name in 
full. In embarking, passengers trav¬ 
eling independently should see that 
the trunks are properly labeled to 
the port of destination. Padlocks 
and straps are objectionable, being 
liable to damage or removal. Canvas 
covers are also undesirable, their re¬ 
moval often leading to the loss of the package. 

Clothing. — For a journey such as this one the tourist should 
provide himself for any kind of weather. In the course of the 
voyage very considerable variations of temperature will be 
experienced, and clothing suited to one part of the journey 
would be utterly unsuitable for the climate of another part. For 
tropical use, nothing equals suits of thin flannel, or of the 
specially made “gossamer cloth these are in every way supe¬ 
rior to white drill or duck clothing, as they greatly lessen the 
chance of a chill being caught. Shirts for the voyage should 
also be of flannel. Pajama or sleeping suits are usually worn, 
and these are recommended to be of flannel, or silk and wool 
material. A sun helmet, or Terai hat, is the best sort of head- 
gear for the tropics, and on other parts of the voyage a tweed 
helmet, or any of the infinite variety of hats and caps now in 


use, can be worn, care being taken the shape selected is one 
that will not easily be blown off the head by the wind. On 
board ship, shoes of ordinary white canvas, or buff leather, 
with leather or india-rubber soles interlined with leather, 
which entirely does away with the drawing of the feet, so 
often complained of in galoched and india-rubber soled boots 
and shoes. A mackintosh coat is a very necessary article of 
equipment for a sea voyage, and among other little matters a 
sun umbrella, or silk one with white cover, and a good, warm 
rug may be mentioned as desirable items to include in the 
outfit list 

The general remarks already made in reference to the prepa¬ 
rations for a voyage desirable for a gentleman, apply in most 
part to ladies also, and it is unnecessary now to do more than 
mention a few specialties of equipment which will materially 
add to their comfort. The question of dresses, bonnets, etc., is 
one that must be left entirely to individual taste. For the 
voyage good blue serge as a dress material can not be sur¬ 
passed, and an ample supply of colored cambric or muslin 
morning dresses should be provided. Either a Terai hat, a 
large straw hat and pugaree, or a pith hat, should be worn. 
The underclothing for hot climates should, of course, be of 
the lightest description, and several specialties in suitable 
material are now made. A flannel dressing-gown should 
also be taken, and such matters as a veil, smelling salts, scent 
and the like are such obvious necessaries as hardly to need 
mention. 

A clothes bag and deck chair are essential. 

Medicines. —European physicians will be found in all the 
seaport and larger towns visited, and on all steamers, and 
medicines of all kinds can be procured in all large cities. 

Firearms.— A heavy custom-house duty is charged in Japan 
and India, even if the arms are not new. 



Field Glasses.— These articles will be found to be very ser¬ 
viceable on land and sea. 

Souvenirs, Presents, Etc. — Vexatious delays and trouble 
will be avoided if packages shipped home are consigned in care 
of some good custom-house brokers. 











BY WAY 

OF INTRODUCTION 


HEN Puck in the nimbleness of his nature 
said to Oberon that he would “put a girdle 
around the world in twenty minutes,” it 
was, in the very nature of things, a brag¬ 
gart’s boast, but the earth is girdled, and the pos¬ 
sibilities of encompassing the footstool within four¬ 
score days by actual travel, beyond question. 

But a few years ago the trip around the world was looked 
upon as a hazardous undertaking. Only the very wealthy, or 
the very daring, looked upon circumnavigating the globe with 
that pleasant anticipation which comes of great deeds accom¬ 
plished. To-day, however, with the rapid spread of the influ¬ 
ences of civilization, the extension of railway lines and steam¬ 
ship facilities, the remotest corners of the earth are within the 
province of any traveler’s ambition, while the girdling of the 
planet upon which we live can be accomplished with perfect 
safety and comfort. Herein is seen the triumph of these 
closing century days. 

“ How much does it cost to go around the world ? ” 

That all depends upon the traveler. You can go first-class, 
second, or steerage; you can go around and make 
no stops, or you can make side trips north and 
south. You can push ahead or stop and do 
the ports and cities, study men and things; 
you can spend much time or little, accord¬ 
ing to your taste and inclination; can 


2i«5!i 










make it very cheap or very dear, or moderate in 
price, just as you are constituted. 

Three great railway systems and two strong 
steamship companies present unrivaled opportunity 
for making this circumnavigation easy of accom¬ 
plishment at moderate cost, and the time is ripe 
for going. 

Leaving Chicago, which has become one of the 
great cities of the world, we turn our face to the 
west, embarking on our globe-trotting excursion with just as 
little misgiving as one has on a journey from New York to 
Chicago. 

The Chicago & North-Western Railway takes you to Omaha. 
From Omaha to Ogden, with side trips to Salt Lake City, 
Great Salt Lake, Utah Hot Springs, and other near-by noted 
resorts, you are under the care of the great “Overland Route,” 
the Union Pacific. At Ogden the Central Pacific whisks you 
away toward the setting sun, landing you in San Francisco 
three days from Chicago. Here the actual journey commences, 
and having secured passage by either the Pacific Mail Steam¬ 
ship Company or the Occidental & Oriental Steamship Com¬ 
pany, whose ships are among the finest afloat, you are hardly 
domiciled in your little world when a delicate gray cloud is seen 
growing up along the edge of the water, and slowly a vast cone¬ 
like cumulus, a lofty rosecloud, takes shape and form, gathers 
clearness of outline, soars sharply into the blue above, and 
reveals Fujiyama, the divine mountain. You have come to Fan 
land—to the Islands of Porcelain — the country of chrysanthe¬ 
mums. Your real earth-girdling is commenced. 









Michigan Avenue and Lake Fiont Park, Chicago. 









































CHICAGO TO COUNCIL BLUFFS 


VIA THE 

CHICAGO & NORTH-WESTERN RY. 




T Chicago the first link of the great through 
car line which connects Chicago with the 
Pacific Coast is reached. The North- 
Western Line, with its thousands of miles 
of perfectly equipped road, furnishes an 
excellent illustration of the wonderful ex¬ 
tent of railroad construction in the United 
States. It was the pioneer railroad of the 
West, its first ten miles of track having 
been laid in 1848. It now gridirons nine great States—Illi¬ 
nois, Iowa, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, North Dakota, 
South Dakota, Nebraska, and Wyoming — and reaches nearly 
all of the principal cities and commercial centers of the above- 
named States. 

enger station of the North-Western Line is cen¬ 
trally located at the corner of Wells and Kinzie 
streets, and it enjoys the distinction of being 
)nly passenger station in the city of Chicago 
occupied exclusively by one railroad. 
Nearly 200 passenger trains enter and 
leave this magnificent structure every 
day in the year. 


Chicago & North-Western Station Chicago. 






Here the traveler enters one of the most per¬ 
fectly equipped and famous trains in the United 
States, “The Overland Limited.” This train is 
vestibuled throughout, and besides the palace 
drawing-room sleeping-cars which run through 
to San Francisco without change, it is equipped 
with the splendid buffet smoking and library cars. 

All meals between Chicago and San Francisco 
are served in dining-cars. 

The train glides swiftly out of the station, passing 
over elevated tracks to the limits of the city, and thence through 
many charming suburbs until the beautiful little city of Geneva, 
on the banks of the Fox River, is reached. This is the point of 
divergence for Aurora, a beautiful city of 20,000 population, 
with many important mercantile and manufacturing interests. 

DIXON, ILL. 

Ninety-seven miles west of Chicago is Dixon, situated on 
both banks of the Rock River, which provides excellent water¬ 
power for the various manufacturing industries which are 
located here. The population of Dixon is about 6,000, and 
the principal business interests are the manufacturing of agri¬ 
cultural implements, boots and shoes, and pianos. A ride of 
twenty miles brings us to 

STERLING, ILL., 

A city of about the same size as Dixon, situated 
on the Rock River. The business interests of 
Sterling are manufacturing and agricultural, 
and it is one of the most progressive cities of 
Northern Illinois. 

The route now leads through some of the 
most productive sections of Illinois. From 








. * 

MlPiifflf 


either side of the train may be seen highly cultivated fields 
and neat and comfortable farm-houses, bearing the strongest 
testimony to the enterprise and thrift of the inhabitants of this 
favored section. 

Fulton, 135 miles west of Chicago, is the next stopping place, 
and the train now crosses the Mississippi to 

CLINTON, IOWA, 

A city of about 15,000 population. The business interests of 
Clinton are varied. A number of large lumber and saw mills 
are located here, as well as factories of agricultural implements, 
furniture, paper, iron bridge-work, etc. 

Leaving Clinton, after a stop of five minutes, the train 
glides swiftly through several typical Iowa villages until 

CEDAR RAPIDS, 

Two hundred and nineteen miles west of Chicago, is reached. 
This beautiful city, with a population of about 20,000 and 
charmingly situated on the Cedar River, is one of the most 
enterprising in the great State of Iowa. Aside from being a 
railroad center of considerable importance, it boasts of business 
interests of almost every kind, including the manufacturing of 
pumps, wagons, crackers, oatmeal, and dairy products. Sev¬ 
eral large flour and planing mills are also located here, and a 
very heavy trade, especially in dairy products, is enjoyed. The 
Northern Iowa Presbyterian Theological School, an important 
educational institution, is one of Cedar Rapids’ attractions. 

One hour’s ride brings us to 

BELLE PLAINE, 

Beautifully located near the Iowa River. Sur¬ 
rounded by a fertile farming and grazing 
region, the business interests of Belle Plaine 













are chiefly stock-raising, but it also has a large creamery and 
various other industries. 

MARSHALLTOWN, IOWA, 

Is the next point of importance on the route, and here the tram 
enters one of the handsomest stations in the State, which has 
recently been constructed by the North-Western Line. Mar¬ 
shalltown has a population of about 10,000. Its business inter¬ 
ests are of almost every kind, including the manufacture of 
glucose starch, canned goods, linseed oil, buggies, flour, cooper¬ 
age, etc. It also has a packing house and a machine shop. 
The State Soldiers’ Home is located here. 



A "our'S' 


Thirty-eight miles west of Marshalltown is Ames, the junc¬ 
tion point for Des Moines, the capital and metropolis of the 
State of Iowa. The Iowa State Agricultural College is located 
at Ames. A short distance south of Ames is 


DES MOINES, 


The principal city of the State, with a population of about 
50,000. The business interests of this city are general, the 
mining and agricultural pursuits being, however, the most 
important. Over 2,000 men are employed in the bituminous 
coal mines. There are several large brickyards, woolen mills, 
shoe factories, steam engine works, as well as factories of knit 
goods, gloves, soap, and other articles. Des Moines has a very 
large distributing trade. Several parks add to the beauty of 
the city, which is charmingly situated on the Des Moines River. 

MISSOURI VALLEY, 

The next point of interest, is a city of about 3,000 inhabitants, 
and is the junction point from which one of the railroads com¬ 
prising the North-Western Line leads northward to Sioux City, 
Iowa; Sioux Falls, South Dakota; St. Paul and Minneapolis, the 



N son % Falls 



wonderful “ Twin Cities ” of Minnesota, as 
well as many other important points in 
the great States of Minnesota and South 
Dakota. 


COUNCIL BLUFFS, 


Twenty miles west of Missouri Valley, 
where the journey over the North-Western 
Line is finished, is a city of over 23,000 
population. It is situated at the foot of high 
bluffs overlooking a plain, which extends to the 
Missouri River, three miles distant. Council Bluffs is an 
important railroad center, and is the metropolis of the sur¬ 
rounding agricultural country. The repair shops of several 
railroads are located here, as well as very extensive stock 
yards, grain elevators, and manufactories of agricultural imple¬ 
ments, wagons, etc. 

The entire journey from Chicago to Council Bluffs via the 
North-Western Line is replete with interest to the tourist and 
sight-seer, affording, as it does, an excellent opportunity for 
forming a correct idea of the wonderful prosperity and inex¬ 
haustible resources of the populous and fertile region through 
which the traveler passes. 


Drawing Room 



Council Bluffs Transfer Depot 








































THE UNION PACIFIC SYSTEM. 




HIS great national highway, forming a part of the 
first transcontinental railroad from ocean to ocean, 
was conceived, and its construction authorized, as a 
war measure, the needs of the Government during the 


War of the Rebellion having clearly shown the necessity 
for it. When first talked of, many thought the feat of con¬ 
structing a line of railroad over the Rocky Mountains an 
utter impossibility. The route, as projected along the old 
emigrant wagon trail through Nebraska to Ogden^in Utah, 
gave rise to grave discussion as to its feasibility, and many who 
had crossed the plains, desert, and mountains to California in 
’49 and ’50 knew very well a railroad could not be built there, 
for, “ How could a locomotive ascend a mountain where six 
yoke of oxen could scarcely haul a wagon?” 

There are people who challenge your admiration, and 
among them is the civil engineer. He climbed the mountains 
thought impassable, and upon May 10, 1869, the last spike con¬ 
necting the East with the West was driven at Promontory, just 
beyond Ogden, since which time the Union Pacific has become 
known throughout the world for the excellence of its roadbed, 
the completeness of its service, and the shortness of its line 
connecting the two oceans. 

Years have demonstrated that this grand 
road was most wisely planned and skillfully 
built. There is no other line to-day possess¬ 
ing its peculiar advantages, and there never 




















In Early Days. 


can be a railway constructed across the continent like 
it. It is the natural highway, either for summer 
or winter, spring or autumn, and it must forever 
hold its commanding position in the railroad 
vorld—a position won through the far-sighted- 
ess of those who conceived the project, and by 
he aid of the Government of the United States, 
carried it to a successful conclusion. 

Crossing the Missouri River from Council 
Bluffs, in Iowa over a magnificent double 
track steel bridge of n spans, 75 feet above the 
water, each span 250 feet long, and which was changed from 
a wooden structure originally connecting Iowa and Nebraska, 
to the present link uniting two great States, without inter¬ 
fering with the running of a single train, Omaha is reached — 
the metropolis of the “Antelope State.” A city of 140,000 
people, Omaha shows what Western push and energy will do 
in a quarter of a century, the population in 1880 being 30,315. 
There are many points of interest in and about Omaha, 
which lies on the west bank of the Missouri. The first settle¬ 
ment was made in 1854, and named for the Omaha Indians, who 
then possessed the country. Omaha has become one of the best 
paved city in the West. It has all the substantial and modern 
improvements of the times, and abounds in business palaces 
of brick, stone, and iron, with smelting furnaces, grain eleva¬ 
tors, packing houses, distilleries, immense stock and lumber 
yards, machine shops and foundries, as well as scores of 
manufactories of all kinds. Omaha has the largest smelting 
works in the world; is the third pork-packing center in the 
world. Omaha is the Gate City of “The Great Plains.” 
Fremont, forty-seven miles west of Omaha, is rapidly passed 
on the transcontinental journey. Columbus, Grand Island, 
Kearney, and North Platte are rapidly left behind. At Jules- 



burg - a profitable side trip may be made in a visit 
to Denver and its beautiful environments. 

Denver is the social and commercial center, not 
alone of Colorado, but also of the outlying States, 
and is called the “Queen City of the Plains.” Its 
elevation is 5,170 feet above the sea-level. It is the 
gate of the mineral and scenic phenomena that have 
made the Rocky Mountains famous. In addition to its other 
advantages, it has a peerless climate, more conducive to out¬ 
door enjoyment than any other known locality. It is situated 
on the plains, at the foot, and almost within the shadow, of 
the “ Mighty Hills,” which protect it alike from the extremes of 
summer and winter weather. The streets are long and level, 
and on either side are rows of shade trees — nourished by 
streams of running water — casting a shade alike upon the man¬ 
sion and the cottage. Its hotels are excellent; in fact, they 
have all the improvements and modern conveniences possessed 
by the large hotels in the East, and the best ones would be first- 
class even in Chicago, St. Louis, New York, or Boston. 

From Denver there is an unbroken view of the Rocky Moun¬ 
tains for nearly 300 miles, reaching from beyond Long’s Peak 
on the nortli to the historical summit of Pike’s Peak on the 
south. This lovely mountain view is an every-day affair to the 
citizens of Denver, but nowhere in the world can its beauty 
and grandeur be surpassed. 

From Denver an innumerable number of trips may be taken 
and they embrace in their extent the grandest scenery in 
Colorado, whether of mountain height, picturesque canon or 
beautiful valley. The points named are easy of access, and the 
train service of the Union Pacific and its Colorado connections 
unsurpassed. 

Idaho Springs, 7,543 feet above the sea level, is a beautiful 
place located in Clear Creek Canon. It is reached from Denver, 



Ten-Mile Canyon. 



via Golden, on the Colorado Central Branch of the Union 
Pacific, Denver & Gulf Railway. Clear Creek Canon is one of 
the wildest gorges in Colorado. Through the solid rock of this 
gorge has been blasted the roadbed of this line. It is the most 
accessible gorge of any in the State. In the days of stages and 
freight wagons, it was used as a thoroughfare. The canon is 
only about one hour’s ride from Denver, and it is reached from 
that city, via Golden, by the Colorado Central Branch of the 
Union Pacific, Denver & Gulf. This branch, until it reaches the 
foothills, runs through fields as green, and past farm houses as 
pleasant as any of which the older States can boast. 

Gray’s Peak is reached from Denver through Clear Creek 
Canon, via Golden, Forks Creek, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, 
and Silver Plume to Graymont, the terminus of the railway, 
from which station the ascent must be made. 

Twenty miles from Denver, on the South Park Line, is 
Platte Canon, and through this sinuous rift in the mountains 
rushes the Platte River, dancing out of its shadowy channel 
into the full light of the valley. The road which is the short 
line to Leadville and the Gunnison country, enters the canon 
where the river leaves it. 

Boulder Canon is reached from Denver via tfie Colorado 
Central Branch of the Union Pacific, Denver & Gulf to Boulder. 
From Boulder a narrow-gauge road has been built into 
Boulder Canon. This canon can favorably compare with Clear 
Creek and Platte Canons, yet it does not equal them in length, 
massiveness, nor height. In one place, a perfect image of 
Minnehaha comes dashing down from amid evergreen sides, 
and this spot has long been a rendezvous for picnic excursions. 

Leadville is best reached from Denver over the South Park 
Line (D., L. & G. R. R.), and the distance is 151 miles. 

Gunnison is a busy little city of 1,105 souls. Its coal supplies 
are inexhaustible, while gold and silver underlie its hills. 





Continuing, however, tne trip to the Pacific, Cheyenne is.Ai 
the next town of any importance after leaving Omaha. 

It is well and compactly built, and for many years has Jg 
been the center of the cattle industry of the North 
west. It constituted for a long time the outpost of civilization, 
becoming embodied in the legends of border life, and is a place 
of rare historical interest. Five miles from the city is Fort 
Russell, one of the largest military posts in the West. Chey¬ 
enne is situated at the base of the foothills of the Rocky Moun¬ 
tains, and is distant 516 miles from Omaha. 

After leaving Cheyenne the train climbs a grade of 2,000 
feet in thirty-three miles to Sherman, 8,247 feet above sea- 
level, and the highest point of the transcontinental ride 
between the Missouri River and San Francisco. From Sher¬ 
man can be seen Long’s Peak, nearly sixty miles away, and 
the Ames Monument, a pyramidal granite structure, 68 feet 
in height with a base of 60 feet square, which was erected 
by the Union Pacific Company to the memory of the Ames 
Brothers, to whom the completion of the Union Pacific Rail¬ 
way is largely due. Just beyond Sherman is Dale Creek 
Bridge, one of the most remarkable sights of the overland trip. 
The structure is of iron and stretches from bluff to bluff with 
a 650-foot span. The train passes over it just 127 feet above 
the creek, which looks like a mere rivulet 
below. Pike’s Peak 
can be seen 
away off 
to the 
south, 
not less 
than 



165 miles, A 
distant. ' 


in ' 







Bluffs of Green River. Wyoming. 

Laramie, often called the “Gem City of the Rockies,” has an 
elevation of 7,149 feet, and is one of the principal towns on the 
main line of the Union Pacific system between Council Bluffs 
and Ogden. It is situated on the Big Laramie River, fifty- 
seven miles northwest of Cheyenne, and is an important mar¬ 
ket for wool. The great Laramie plains, which stretch away 
for miles on either side of the iron rails, afford pasture for 
thousands of cattle and horses, and are of great interest to the 
traveler from the East who for the first time looks upon the 
immensity of this great western country. Rawlins, named 
after Gen. John A. Rawlins, chief of staff of General Grant dur¬ 
ing the war, and afterward Secretary of War during Grant’s 
first term as President, is 136 miles farther on our way. Rock 
Springs comes next, where the immense coal mines of the 
Union Pacific are located, hundreds of thousands of tons 
being annually mined and sold all over the western 
country. At Green River the trains for Portland, Ore., are 
made up, although they do not take their departure from 
the main line over the Oregon Short Line until Granger 
is reached, thirty miles west of Green River. From Green 
River the trip across the continent to San Francisco is 
U continued. After passing Granger, the last town of impor- 
U|| tance in Wyoming, Evanston is reached. At Wasatch Sta¬ 
tion the road enters Echo Canon. Echo Creek, which runs 
/A through the canon, is crossed thirty-one times in twenty- 
h^U 'Six miles. Three and a half miles west of Wasatch the 







train runs into a tunnel 900 feet long-. One 
mile east of Castle Rock is a queer formation of 
rock resembling the ruins of an old castle. 

” Hanging Rock ” is what its name indicates. 

Two and a half miles west of Emory, on top of 
the bluff, is a rock called “Jack in the Pulpit,' 
and farther on can be seen the heights of Ech 
Canon, on top of which are the old Mormon forth* 
fications. Then comes “ Steamboat RoeksCT 
Just before reaching Echo are seen the “ AmpiM^I^ l v 
theater,” “ Pulpit Rocks,” and “ Bromley’s CatrA^ 
dral.” At Echo Station Weber Canon is enteilf 
One and a half miles west of Echo can be setn the “ Witch 
Rocks.” Five miles farther on is the 1,000-mile tree, and a mile- 
farther on is the “Devil’s Slide.” Echo and Weber canons com¬ 
pare favorably with the celebrated Colorado canons. Three and 
a half miles west of Croydon the canon broadens out, and to the 
left are noticed the first of the Mormon settlements. About half 
a mile away, between Peterson and Uintah Station, “ Devil’s 
Gate ” is to be seen, and shortly after the country widens into the 
Great Salt Lake Valley, when Ogden is reached. The first view 
of the valley, after the surfeit of the mountain scenery, is one 
of striking contrast, quiet and pleasant to the eye. 

Ogden is one of the western termini of the Union Pacific. It 
has an elevation of 4,301 feet above sea-level, and a population of 
1 7,000. The enormous supplies in shipments from the great coun¬ 
try tributary to it give employment in their transfer to a large 
number of men. Here are located the division headquarters and 
shops of the Union Pacific and Central Pacific railroads, and the 
surrounding country possesses much to attract the tourist for a 
little while on his onward way to the Golden Gate, giving him a 
breathing spell, as it were, before he resumes his railroad travel. 
Nine miles north of Ogden, and readily reached from there over 









Salt Lake City. 


the Oregon Short Line Railroad to Hot 
Springs Station, are the Utah Hot 
Springs. These springs have an elevation 
of some 4,500 feet above sea-level, and are 
far superior to the Hot Springs of Arkansas. 
The main spring boils up at the foot of a low ridge of the 
Wasatch Mountains, a short distance east of the railway station. 
These springs impart a red hue to the surrounding soil. Their 
temperature is so high that the hand can not be held in the 
water without great pain. The water is conducted into the 
hotel from the springs through wooden pipes, for private bath¬ 
ing, and for the great open bath when it becomes cool enough 
for use. The waters are highly medicinal, and are patronized 
all the }^ear round, being very efficacious in curing rheumatism, 
neuralgia, catarrh, and all skin, blood, and kidney diseases. A 
day can be most delightfully spent in viewing Salt Lake City, 
and visiting Great Salt Lake, the Dead Sea of the North Amer¬ 
ican continent. The ride from Ogden to Salt Lake City, thirty- 
seven miles, via the Oregon Short Line, is one of peculiar 
interest, passing down the Utah or Salt Lake Valley, sloping 
gently from the mountains on the one side to the Great Salt 
Lake on the other. Garfield Beach, on Great Salt Lake, is 
eighteen miles from Salt Lake City, and is reached by a branch 
of the Oregon Short Line Railroad. It has the only real sand- 
beach on the lake, and is considered by many to be the finest in 
the world. The lake itself is not a sullen, listless sheet of 
water beating idly on the shores, but, on the contrary, is as 
beautiful a sheet of water as can be seen anywhere. In the 
long sunny days of June, July, August, and September 
the water becomes delightfully warm, much warmer 
than the ocean. It is 21 per cent salt, while the 
ocean is only 3 per cent. The water is so dense 
that a person is sustained on its surface indefinitely 


Mormon Temple. 






without effort. Experience has proven its 
great hygienic effects. The view from the pavil¬ 
ion at Garfield Beach is one of surpassing loveli- .. 
ness, the mountains on the shore forming a fine 
background to the rippling waters of the lake, which 
stretch out on either hand before the beholder, dancing 
in the sunlight, sometimes a beautiful blue, and at other 
times green, with three or four of the largest islands in full 
view, which, in the distance, have a peculiar purplish hue. 

Salt Lake City is unique. There is nothing exactly like it in 
the world, and a visit to this seat of the Mormon Church will 
more than repay the traveler for the day spent in inspecting 
the Tabernacle, the grave of Brigham Young— the founder of 
the city — his old residence, and the palace of his favorite wife, 
while an outside view of the Temple will give the tourist a 
better idea of this people than any amount of reading. There 
are noble pictures hereabouts wherewith the traveler adorns 
the chambers of his brain, the tone and composition of which 
can be imparted but feebly. 

Within three hours’ ride of Salt Lake lies one of the most 
marvelous gold camps of modern times—Mercur. 

Mercur lies about forty miles southwest of Salt Lake, in a 
direct line, and fifty-nine miles by railroad. Going by rail, one 
leaves Salt Lake at 7.40 a. m., reaching Mercur at 10.30 a. m. 
The route lies almost due south from Salt Lake to Lehi Junc¬ 
tion, twenty-nine miles, reached by the Oregon Short Line, 
where the Mercur coach is switched from the main line to the 
Eureka branch of the Oregon Short Line. 

Two years ago Mercur was the least of 
the mining camps of Utah. To-day she 
ranks right up with older mining regions 
that have paid their millions in divi¬ 
dends. Then a broken, rugged moun- 



Garfield 

Beach. 



Pavilion at Garfield Beach. 




A Scene at 
Mercur. 


tain trail led from the railroad to the Mercur, a distance 
of ten miles. Now, however, the steam horse climbs the 
hills, and is a common carrier for the crowds who throng 
to this great camp of promise. 

Those who have been intimately identified with the 
development of the Camp Floyd mining district during 
the past few years are themselves surprised at its rapid 
and marvelous growth. 

Returning to Ogden, after our delightful visit to the pleasant 
places which hold out inviting arms, we take the Central Pacific 
for San Francisco. 

At Ogden the west-bound tourist finds himself transferred to 
what is familiarly known as “ The Central Pacific,” officially 
designated, however, as “ The Ogden Route of the Southern 
Pacific Company.” 

Now, indeed, he is entering upon historic grounds, for it was 
between this point and that other not yet visible but already 
indicated with every closing day by the faint glow marking 
the last effort of the sinking sun, that was fought the chief 
fight in that old-time conquest of toil and struggle. It was a 
great conquest in every sense of the word, resulting, as it did, 
in linking together for all time the East and the West —aye ! 
and that other and farther East lying beyond the sunset seas 
enshrouded in the romance and mystery of the Orient. 

The citizens of Ogden, with a feeling of proper pride, call 
their place of residence the “ Junction City of the West,” and 
certainly they are not without justification. It is, in fact, a 
point of terminus for no less than five great trunk lines of 
railroad, but it is doubtful if any of them exceed in historic 
interest, or in the record of difficulties and obstacles encount¬ 
ered and overcome, the great Central Pacific. 



Union Passengei Station at Ogden. 










w. 


PACIFIC. 


i 





HOUGH Ogden now marks the eastern terminus of 
this line, and is the city at which the extensive offices 
and shops of its Salt Lake division are located, the 
actual point where connection was originally made 
between that line and the Union Pacific, away back 
in the sixties, is Promontory. 

This is a small station lying about fifty-three miles 
north from Ogden, unimportant in itself, but which 
must always possess an amount of interest second to that 
which attaches to no other point known in railway history. 
It was here that on Monday, the ioth of May, 1869, the 
last rail was laid and the golden spike driven which united 
the two roads, and completed a work whose chief meaning 
was that hereafter the great East and the West (yet greater, 
\ ' judged, at least, by the promise and possibilities of the future) 

were to be indeed but a single country, “ one and 
indivisible.” 

Westward from Promontory the tourist passes, 
successively, Rozel, Lake, and Monument, all 
closely adjacent to the Great Salt Lake, that 
strange Dead Sea of the western world which 
seems destined ever to remain as great a subject 
of study and conjecture to the scientist as it is an 
object of admiration and wonder, not unmixed 
with awe, to the ordinary observer. Repeated 
views of the Great Salt Lake have been obtained 


Drawing Room Car. 
























since Ogden was left behind, but at Monument, 
the last glimpse is taken. 

Whirled swiftly onward toward the west, 
the traveler sees it no more, and thereafter the 
Lake is destined to live in his memory as only 
one of the many wonders associated with his 
remembrances of this western pilgrimage. 

To the south of the track, stretching away 
almost as far as the eye can reach, spreads the 
Great Salt Lake Desert, a waste of cactus and 
sagebrush, and red and yellow rock, with here 
and there the dried bed of a vanished and almost n 

Day Coach, 

prehistoric water-course to remind the tourist that there was a 
time here when things were different. 

After the first novelty of the desolate region has worn off, 
the tourist will not find the desert spectacle particularly thrill¬ 
ing in its interest, and he will not lack for time and inclination 
to study and admire the enterprise and resolution which must 
have animated the men who dared to plan and build a trans¬ 
continental highway through a region such as this. 

The boundary separating Utah and Nevada is crossed near 
Tecoma, and the tourist finds himself in the famous Silver 
State. Henceforward, if he is even so slightly informed of 
what lies before him, he looks forward to a journey through a 
land of wonders — and he is not disappointed. 

Wells, or, to give it the name by which the place was known 
years before the advent of the railroad, Humboldt Wells, is 
614 miles east of San Francisco, and 5,628 feet above the level of 
the sea. It is a place of considerable importance as compared 
with many other stations along the line. Round-houses and 
various other appurtenances are located here, and a never-failing 
source of interest for the tourist is found in the deep and brim¬ 
ming pools of water, which of old gave the place its name. 









Corner of 
Room 


Drawi 

Car 


ng 


In those days it was of vastly more importance to the west¬ 
bound traveler than now. At present, as he rolls onward in a 
smoothly-gliding and luxurious palace car, abundantly sup¬ 
plied with all the luxuries and comforts of life, it has for him 
only the interest which attaches to anything equally strange 
and curious. But in the days when an ox-team, instead of a 
locomotive, dragged the traveler westward, his fortune in reach¬ 
ing Humboldt Wells on time, or by ill-luck in failing to do so, 
not infrequently meant life or death to him and his. 

The crossing of the desert was a sore trial to man and beast, 
and one can imagine with what a gaze of strained eagerness the 
road-worn travelers, pressing doggedly forward on their thirsty 
way, kept their burning eyes fixed on that famed landmark, 
Pilot Knob, which everyone bound westward had been bidden 
to steer for in his search for rest and water. 

Now, as already suggested, all this is changed, but the inter¬ 
est attaching to Wells, and the deep pools which have saved so 
many brave lives, yet remains. 

Leaving Wells behind, the train speeds along the fertile val¬ 
ley of the Humboldt, doubly lovely in the eyes of the traveler 
after the desolation which he has left behind. Yet that desola¬ 
tion has given to the region wherein it reigns the fame of being 
one of the wonderlands of America. Mention has already been 
made of the theory in regard to an ancient ocean which, in pre¬ 
historic days, rolled its billows through some part of this wild 
territory. 

But other tales are told of regions now waste 
and desolate, where, of old, beautiful streams 
flowed unchecked and in unstinted volume eiv- 
ing unbounded fertility to the soil, and making 
t it fruitful for the support of a teeming popula¬ 
tion which, tradition says, one day dwelt there. 
The tale is not without foundation. 



v*' ' 











The traces of vanished water-courses 
remain; more than this, that the so-called des^f 
land is really—much of it at least — wonderfiT 
fertile when subjected to the revivifying influence of 
sufficient moisture, has been amply proven. Already thousands 
of acres have been redeemed by means of wisely planned irri¬ 
gation systems, and what the enterprise and capital of the 
future will do in the same direction can only be conjectured. 

The west-bound train flits by Elko and in due time glides 
smoothly into the station of Carlin, 535 miles east of San Fran¬ 
cisco, 4,897 feet above the sea. 

From Palisade and Battle Mountain narrow-gauge roads run 
southward; the first, to the mining district of Eureka, and the 
second, to the important city of Austin. The main line con¬ 
tinues on, however, in a general southwest-by-west direction 
through the “Lake district” named Palisade, Gravelly Ford, 
Beowawe, toward Reno, the California boundary line, and 
beautiful Tahoe. 

But, anxious as every traveler must be to reach a region of 
which the fame has spread far beyond the limits of our own 
broad lands, there is much that is interesting to be noted before 
the arrival there. The Palisades of the Humboldt, which give 
their name to the station already mentioned, are in themselves a 
most striking feature of the scenery along the road through the 
Silver State. They inclose the famous Twelve Mile Canon, the 
great walls rising 1,000 feet in the air, Red Cliff and the Devil’s 
Peak soaring up amid the rest as special objects of interest. 

At Beowawe — the Indian equiva-^. 
lent for our English “gate” — th< 

Humboldt River forces its way 
through a great gap in the Red 
Mountains, and the fact has 
been made good use of by 






those whose work it has been to open a road for the purposes 
of man. 

Another station and town to be passed is Winnemucca, named 
for the famous old Piute chief, always the friend of the paleface, 
and, thanks to whose influence, there has rarely been anything 
but peace and the best of good understanding between his 
people and the whites. 

The town to which his name has been given is the capital of 
Humboldt County. 

The Nevada desert is entered at Lovelocks, the line of 
railroad no longer following the valley of the Humboldt, 
which stream insures fertility to a considerable extent of ter¬ 
ritory. Thereafter, here and there, verdant spots are met with, 
illustrating fully what may be done in regions of seeming 
desolation by means of irrigation. From various points of van¬ 
tage, too, the tourist looks down upon such famous features of 
the peculiar Nevada topography as the Carson Sink, Hum¬ 
boldt Lake, the Black Rock Desert, Pyramid Lake, and the 
great tule and alkali flats for which this portion of the Silver 
State is noted. 

Pyramid Lake is a grand, though sometimes stormy, sheet of 
water, and swarms with fish and wild fowl, and the same is true 
pf all the more notable mountain pools of this strange region. 
Reno, the most important commercial city in Nevada, is a 
bustling town and the seat of the State University, 
United States Agricultural Experiment Station, and 
other important institutions. It is the point from 
which the Nevada, California & Oregon, and the Vir¬ 
ginia & Truckee, and Carson & Colorado railroads 
branch off from the trunk line. The Carson road gives 
access to the capital city of the same name, Virginia 
City and other towns of the district famous as the seat 
of the great “ Comstock ” and other mines which, since 


In the Dining Car. 


being first opened, have added so vastly to the wealth of the 
Pacific Coast and the world. Over $400,000,000 have come out 
of the Bonanza mines alone, and it is not to be wondered at, 
therefore, that tourists should so often choose to leave the 
main line here at Reno for a brief visit to the wild and rugged 
mountain region which has played so important a part in the 
modern financial history of the world. 

Since passing Ogden the tourist has only once found himself 
at a less altitude than 4,000 feet, and then only during a run of 
a few miles near Lovelock. But now that he leaves Reno and 
pushes westward, he begins to realize what mountain railroad¬ 
ing really means. 

Up, up, up! steadily higher and higher, winds the road over 
the mountain slope, following as it goes the canon sides, 
between which dashes the foaming Truckee River. The trav¬ 
eler is in the Sierra Nevada now, and feasts his eyes as he 
will on the wonders and beauties of the wildest mountain 
scenery. At the same time — and this he certainly can not help 
but do—he will marvel from the depth of his soul at the stu¬ 
pendous character of the work which was accomplished when 
this section of the great transcontinental road was built. 
From side to side of the roaring mountain river the track 
springs, as the exigencies of the ground require, but always it 
continues ascending. A few miles west of Verdi the State 
line is crossed, and the traveler is at last in California, the 
famed Golden State. But still the great engines storm along, 
dragging train and traveler yet nearer the clouds. 

Boca, the first town fairly in the State of California, 
and famous as a great shipping point for Sierra 
ice, is arrived at and passed, and still the as¬ 
cent continues. Truckee, the famous moun¬ 
tain city, 5,891 feet above the sea, is reached at 
last, but the road yet climbs skyward. Four- 



% 


Yes, Sah! 



Lake Tahoe. 


Lake 


teen miles beyond is Summit, 1,126 feet higher still, and here, 
as the name of the station indicates, the highest point on the 
road is reached. 

But tourists making the trip westward for the first time find 
it hard to pass Truckee in any such hasty fashion. There is 
the best of reasons why they should not, for this is a famed 
and favorite point of departure for the throngs who constantly, 
during the summer months, visit such points of interest as 
Webber and Donner lakes—the latter named from the 
ill-fated Donner party which in the old days perished 
in its vicinity from starvation — and, greatest of 
all, Lake Tahoe. 

Situated 6,216 feet above the level 
of the sea, twenty-five miles in 
length and twelve in width, 
^ surrounded by the most 
« ■ « magnificent of mountain 
scenery, and itself, in 
the crystal purity of its 
JSeep and gleaming waters, 
seeming like some vast gem 
of matchless worth and beauty, 
resting in so grand a setting as the 
Creator alone could make, Lake Tahoe 
deserves all its world-wide fame. There is no other 
. _ of water like it. It lacks the palaces and prim pleasure 
grounds, perhaps, which deck the shores of some of its Old 
orld rivals, but its own loveliness needs nothing of aid from 
adjuncts such as these. Instead, around about it rise great 
mountain peaks, towering five and ten thousand feet toward 
the sky; cape and promontories, bold, picturesque, and beauti¬ 
ful, break the shore-line; elsewhere are lovely inlets, coves, and 
bays; vast stretches of grand woods sweep the shore in places 








Eagle Cascade. Tahoe. 

















p* 


«»* ■K'jfcJ* 


... - 


■ 






Sleeping Car. 


for mile upon mile; and again, long reaches of 
verdant lawn-like slopes are met with, such as 
might well become the grounds of the Old World 
palaces, which are fortunately wanting. Yet are 
these not lacking picturesque and beautiful cot¬ 
tages and villas, summer hotels of appropriate 
design and construction, camping-places, boat¬ 
houses and landings in abundance. But nowhere 
is the work of man obtrusive. Nature in the 
grandeur and magnificence of its beauty over- 
, shadows all. Tahoe, as is to be expected, is a 
amous place for boating and fishing, and the wooded 
shores and hillsides afford the sportsman ample oppor¬ 
tunity also for the pursuit of mountain game. 

Tahoe City is the first place of note that the Tahoe tourist 
reaches after leaving the railroad at Truckee. It is the ter¬ 
minus of the stage line from that point to the lake, and if 
entitled to no other distinction either as an incipient metropo¬ 
lis, as its name might imply, or merely as a circumstance of 
travel will always be remembered as the initial point of acquaint¬ 
ance with some of the most picturesque and delightfully 
charming scenes in the world. 

Many are satisfied to remain at Tahoe City a| 
radial point of their numerous Tahoe tours. Itl 
accommodation, is by no means barren of at.t.r; 
tions, and is in daily communication by steamergiPr ' 
or otherwise with all points of interest in the 
Tahoe country. 

The first object on the right, after leaving 
Tahoe City for a tour of the lake, is an extinct 




Fruit Drying in California. 




























logging camp; then comes Grizzly Bear Peak; then 
comes Sunnyside, a private country resort. One 
mile farther is Idlewild, nestled in a grove of pine 
and fir, at the base of a great rock several hundred 
feet high; there are also two other villas. The 
next point is McKinney’s, a public summer resort, 
eight miles from Tahoe City. There is a hotel 
and a number of cottages at this place. Here 
connection is made by stage for Rubicon Springs, 
a few miles distant, whose waters are of a high 
grade and very beneficial in certain diseases. 

Meeks’ Bay is thirteen miles from Tahoe City, 
at the head of which is a dairy ranch. The Rubi¬ 
con Range is immediately in front, and Mount 
Tallac just beyond. Eight miles farther is Emerald Bay, one 
of the most beautiful and romantic places on Tahoe, being 
three miles long and about half a mile wide. The hotel and 
cottages are ample and attractive. 

Tallac, about four miles from Emerald Bay, is one of the pret¬ 
tiest places on the lake. Several thousand acres of untouched 
forest surround this resort. Good roads have been built to 
various points of interest in the vicinity, notably, the drive to the 
falls at the head of the Cascade Lake. Mount Tallac, 9,715 feet 
high, is reached by trail, and from its summit may be seen nearly 
a score of lakes. The Tallac House has all the latest improve¬ 
ments, and 150 guests are easily accommodated at one time. 
The stable attached affords excellent unbounded 
opportunity for equestrian recreation. 

Yanks is located at the southern end of Lake 
Tahoe. The view of the lake is magnificent, 
and good fishing can be had at this point. 

Numerous small and picturesque lakes are in 
close proximity to this spot. 


Lake Tahoe. 


Glenbrook, near Lake Tahoe. 



Glenbrook is quite a village, having a good hotel and several 
stores. It is thirteen miles from Tahoe City, directly across 
the lake. Crystal Bay is eight miles from Glenbrook; then 
four miles to Hot Springs, four miles to Carnelian Bay, and 
four miles to Tahoe City. There are three warm sulphur 
eruptions at Hot Springs — two upon the shore and one in the 
water; their temperature averages about 94 0 . 

Deer Park Inn and Mineral Springs are situ¬ 
ated in a picturesque rock-walled canon, about 
five miles from Lake Tahoe, known locally as 
“ Bear Valley,” through which a sparkling trout 
stream rushes and leaps on its way to the Truckee 
River, two miles below. The springs are credited 
with high medicinal qualities, and, aside from 
other attractions, are receiving merited attention 
p for their healing worth. The “ Log Cabin,” con¬ 
structed on the primitive pioneer plan, forms a 
unique part of the ample accommodations. The 
hospitable board and homely comforts, the inter¬ 
esting environments, and the opportunities for 
pleasant diversion, combine to make Deer Park 
Inn a popular mountain retreat. 

Independence Lake, fourteen miles from Boca, 
Hs a beautiful gem. It is two and one-half miles 
long, and three-quarters of a mile wide. The shores 
Independence are bold and rocky in many places, 
but the lake is accessible at both ends. Its waters are 
alive with trout, which are gamy and delicious. While most 
of the fish are of the silver trout family, there are also many 
red trout; and in the stream near by there are eastern and 
speckled trout. The hotel is situated at the northern end of 
the lake, to which point there is regular stage service from 
Boca during the season. It will accommodate forty guests. 




Donner Lake. 


and the proprietor keeps a large' 
number of tents for camping par¬ 
ties. 

Webber Lake, another mountain 
gem, is about twenty-two miles from 
Boca, at an altitude of 6,925 feet. It 
is circular in shape, its waters crystal white, 
and with a depth of eighty-four feet. It is considered one of 
the finest fishing grounds in California, the trout being large 
and numerous. About three-quarters of a mile from the lake 
are the falls, which have a descent of 105 feet. On the south¬ 
east is White Rock Peak, nearly 2,500 feet above the lake, at 
the base of which is a small body of water called White Rock 
Lake. On the south is Meadow Lake Pass, with mountains 
upon either side 3,000 feet higher than the lake. On the west 
is Webber’s Peak, 9,000 feet above the sea. One mile north, 570 
feet above Webber Lake, at an altitude of 7,945 feet, is a beau¬ 
tiful little lake covering about forty acres, called Lake of the 
Woods; and still farther north is a peak called Observation ; 
Point, from which may be seen 300 miles of country in a direct I 
line on a clear day. The hotel is situated about thirty yards [ 
from the northern rim of the lake. Stage from Truckee, via t- S 
Campbell Hot Springs; or from Boca, via Independence Lake. 

Donner Lake, which can be seen from the car window, is 
a beautiful sheet of water about three miles long by one wide, 
and is 483 feet in depth. Above and on either side are lofty 
mountains, with castellated granite crests, while below, at the 
mouth of the lake, a grassy, meadowy valley widens out and 
extends almost to Truckee. In summer, its willowy thickets, 
its groves of tamarack and forests of pine, are the favorite 
haunts and nesting places of the quail and grouse. Speckled 
trout abound. It is only three miles from Truckee. 

Soda Springs are situated on the banks of the American 



Donner Lake. 





River, thirteen miles from Summit Station, the highest point 
of the Sierra Nevada route, 7,042 feet above the sea-level, and 
are said to contain great curative powers. There is good hunt¬ 
ing near by, and trout fishing in the river. The resort is open 
during the tourist season. 

Campbell Hot Springs has gained considerable popularity 
of late years, not only as an attractive resort and a delightful 
place for all sorts of mountain pastimes, but as the possessor of 
mineral springs of remarkable curative powers. Victims of 
liver, kidney, and blood disorders receive great benefits from 
the use of these waters. Stage from Truckee twenty-five miles. 

At Summit, as has been said, the line of the Central Pacific 
reaches its highest point. Then the descent begins, the road 
winding down through mile after mile of mountain scenery, 
stupendous and awe-inspiring in its magnificent grandeur. At 
times, it is true, the view is an interrupted one, for not only 
does the track pass through tunnels, rock-hewn and of costliest 
construction, but here, too, is the snow-shed region, where for 
miles and miles the train runs within these massive structures, 
which, however they may interrupt the tourist’s view, mean, in 
the winter season, something far more material to him than 
scenery, and that is — safety. 

Still, from time to time there are breaks and gaps and the trav¬ 
eler is by no means left in the dark as to the character of the 
country through which he is moving so swiftly. 

Blue Canon, 4,700 feet above the sea, the last 
section of the sheds is left behind, and there- 
ifter the grand scenery of the sunset 
slope of the Sierras lies ever 
before or beneath the eyes of 
the traveler as he speeds 
on his way westward and 
downward. 




The descent is rapid. Cisco is down about to the level of 
Truckee on the other side of the ridge. At Colfax, thirty-eight 
miles farther on, the altitude is but 3,512 feet, and now the 
tourist is in the Middle Sierra Belt, the mining region. 





Stations, the names of which smack of the old days of rockei, 
pan, and shovel, pass by — Emigrant Gap, where the old ox-trail 
of the hardy Argonauts is still a feature of interest; Blue Canon, . 
Shady Run, Towles, Alta, and Dutch Flat. Now, however, 
while mining is still pursued, the land is blooming with orchards, 
for the husbandman is pressing the gold-seeker hard. In fact, -V/ 
as far up in the Sierras as Colfax the presence of the horticul- Sfr 
turist is strongly manifest. 

From Colfax onward the work of the horticulturist becomes \ 
steadily more manifest with every mile traversed. 

Clipper Gap, Auburn, Newcastle, Penryn, and Loomis are all 
points already famed among the fruit-producing centers of the 
State. 

To the apple, pear, and prune of the higher altitude, swiftly 
succeed the orange, lemon, olive, figs, and vine, and the traveler 
soon finds himself whirling on his way through a region which 
seems to breathe of perpetual fruitage and bloom. 

The soil is extremely rich, water is abundant, the climate 
delightful, and at the doors of the husbandman is the mag¬ 
nificently equipped railroad ready to carry his products to 
market. 

In due time Roseville Junction is reached, the point 3 
which the Oregon Line branches off, and which is nota¬ 
ble also, inasmuch as here the tourist finds himself 
fairly on the floor, so to speak, of the Sacramento 
Valley, with the mountains completely left behind. 

For eighteen miles farther he glides on his way 
amid the quietly lovely scenery of the Sacramento 
River bottom, to find himself landed at last in the 



Cape H 












blooming city of the same name, the capital of the great 
State of California. 

It is a lovely city, parklike in the aspect imparted to it 
by the broad, tree-bordered streets and avenues and the 
beautiful grounds surrounding its many handsome and 
costly private mansions. Here, too, are located the 
tately Capitol and other public buildings, each standing 
amid ample and well-kept grounds, which add immeasur¬ 
ably to its attractiveness. 

Beside the city flows the quiet river; sometimes in the win¬ 
ter, it is true, anything but quiet, ordinarily speaking, it only 
adds to the calm and peaceful beauty of the city’s environs. It 
would be difficult to find anywhere lovelier scenes than are to be 
met with in the residence districts and suburbs of Sacramento. 

Here are situated the principal shops of the railroad com¬ 
pany, which afford constant employment to between 2,500 and 
3,000 men. All these live with their families in the city, and 
are happy, prosperous, and contented. It is a boast of Sacra¬ 
mento that a larger proportion of workingmen own their own 
homes there than in any other city in the country. 

ut San Francisco, Queen City of the West, still beckons in 
the distance from her proud seat between the bay and 
sea. And once more the train glides forward, the 
road lying along verdant plains, dotted thickly every¬ 
where with brightly-painted homes and farm build¬ 
ings, and thickly set with orchards and vineyards 
hundreds of acres in extent. Here, too, close at 
hand, are seen the great tule flats of Sacramento 
River, not always a cheerful and inspiring scene, 
but having at least the virtue of variety. Station 
after station flits by, and when an hour or two 
has passed there comes to the nostrils a fresh, salt 
fragrance that seems to breathe of the sea. It is 


Sleeping Car. 




true! The great chain of bays, Suisun, San Pablo, and San 
Francisco, gleam in the distance. Beyond is the mighty Pacific. 

At Benicia, once the capital of the State, but now a quiet 
though thriving little city, are many important manufacturing 
interests. Carquinez Strait seems to offer a decided bar to the 
farther advance of the train, but in the slip lies the great ferry¬ 
boat, “ Solano,” and the entire train, engine, baggage, and 
mail cars, day coaches, and sleepers, glides smoothly on board. 
The bell clangs! The great boat moves out into the stream; a 
very few minutes and the landing is made on the Port Costa 
side. Again the bell clangs; the train moves ashore, once 
more ready to continue on its way to San Francisco. 

But a word first about the great ferryboat “ Solano,” largest 
of her class afloat, and most perfectly designed for the work 
that she was built to perform. She is 424 feet in length, a 
double-ender, never turning round, of 3,542 registered tonnage, 
and has a capacity for the transportation of forty-eight cars, 
with locomotive, or twenty-four passenger coaches of the 
largest class. She can not sink, being built with eleven water¬ 
tight transverse bulkheads, and she is driven by two vertical 
beam engines of 2,000 horse-power each. On her deck are 
four parallel tracks upon which rest the trains which she ferries 
over the strait. 

Having crossed and left behind Port Costa with its vast and 
steadily growing grain storage and shipping industry, the 
traveler rolls smoothly on toward the final end of his rail 
journey, now less than an hour distant. On his right, for the 
entire distance, spreads the magnificent expanse of San Fran¬ 
cisco Bay, persistently taken for a section of the ocean itself 
by those who for the first time behold its vast extent. Here 
and there an island rises boldly above the surface, and greatest 
and most important is that which is seen at the very beginning 
of the bayside journey. This is Mare Island, separated from 



Sleeping Car. 



Library Car. 


the city of Vallejo, in Solano County, by a narrow channel, and 
famed as the site of the Government’s Pacific Coast Navy Yard. 
Here are located the magnificent stone dry-docks, large enough 
to receive any war vessel afloat, and which have often been 
made good use of by the largest that have ever entered San 


U S. Mint, 

San Francisco. 


Francisco Bay. 

A delightful ride along the bayside brings the traveler finally 
to beautiful tree-bowered Oakland, a glimpse being first had of 
no less lovely Berkeley, where are located the splendid buildings 
of the great University of California. It is from this point, by 

the way, that the first glimpse of 
the Pacific is obtained, the Golden 
Gate opening clearly before 
the traveler’s eyes as he 
passes Berkeley, and show¬ 
ing him the broad expanse 
of ocean stretching out 
beyond. In the evening, 
to the residents of the Uni¬ 
versity town, the sun sets 
in the sea, directly between 
the heads of Golden Gate. 

The train pauses for a few 
moments at Sixteenth Street Station for the benefit of those who 
desire to remain in Oakland, a city of 70,000 inhabitants, and in 
every way beautiful and attractive. Then, once more the cars 
glide forward, and in ten minutes or less come again to a halt, 
this time at the “ mole”; the land journey is ended. 

The “ mole ” is the landing for the magnificent ferryboats 
which every half-hour make the eighteen-minute run between 
its slips and the city of San Francisco. To reach it, however, 
the train has run straight out into the bay from the Oakland 
shore for a distance of over a mile and a half. Of old, the 










tracks were laid on a stout trestle, but now, and for many 
years past, the place of the latter has been taken by a 
solid causeway of earth and stone most massively faced 
with great blocks of granite—in every respect a mag¬ 
nificent work. 

At the mole, beside the landing slips, are train m 
sheds of vast extent, commodious waiting-rooms, * " 
and all manner of offices needed for the proper 
transaction of the business of the great trans¬ 
continental company. The traveler pauses for » 
but a brief glimpse of these, however, for the 
porter has assisted him from the car with his a * 
belongings, and the ferryboat is waiting. 

The “ Piedmont ” and the “ Oakland,” the two * V 
steamers which are ordinarily employed in the ferry service, 
though the company owns others which can be used as needed, 
are magnificent specimens of their class. Supplied with the 
most powerful engines, lighted throughout with electricity, and 
splendidly fitted and furnished, it is not often the traveler is 
found who can fail to admire them; such as they are, they mark 
the last stage of the overland journey, a delightful ending for a 
season of thoroughly interesting experience. 

The bay trip is a short one. Yerba Buena, otherwise “Goat 
Island,” the sentinel isle in the middle of the bay, is soon 
passed. Less than twenty minutes in all elapse, and the 
steamer is gliding into the slip on the western side. 

Before the gazing eyes of the tourist, as he stands 
on the upper deck, rise forests of masts lining 
the wharves of the water front. Beyond are 
the heights and slopes and levels of the great 
Queen City of the West. Massive blocks, 
lofty towers, and graceful spires and steeples 
rise high in air. Market Street, the city’s 



Cliff ► 



principal artery, opens before one’s eyes. A few blocks from 
the ferry, if he looks before him as he lands, he catches a 
glimpse of the flags flying above the Palace Hotel. He has 
arrived at the Mecca of his pilgrimage. 

He will spend many days in San Francisco before he has 
partaken to satiety of its strange attractiveness. It is a pic¬ 
turesque city—picturesque as to population as well as in 
appearance; its 350,000 inhabitants constitute a population 
than which it would be impossible for anything to be more 
cosmopolitan. Its architecture is in keeping, too, with the 
mixture of nationalities among its residents. All styles of 
buildings are seen along its streets, but the effect, taken as 
a whole, is more than ordinarily pleasing. There is an ample 
field for interesting study of the vagaries and whims of 
builders. 

But San Francisco is a great city undeniably to-day, though 
destined manifestly to be vastly greater. In many things it 
has already taken the lead. It has one of the most magnifi¬ 
cent parks in the world, and the most elaborate and perfect 
street-car system affording access thereto. It is here that 
the cable-car was first built and used, and many another 
valuable invention has first seen the light in San Francisco. 
The most of its people are earnest, intelligent, active, and 
progressive. It has a harbor such as nowhere on the face 
of the earth can be surpassed. It is the natural gateway 
through which the trade of the Occident and the Orient of 
the Western Continent and the isles of the sea should pass. 
It is a great city now; it will yet be a greater. In short, it is 
well fitted to be to the western shore of the Republic what 
New York, the Empire City, is to that which borders upon 
the storm-vexed Atlantic. And nowhere on the continent 
is there to-day a city which more amply repays the interest 
of the visitor. ' 






FAMOUS CALIFORNIA RESORTS 


REACHED FROM SAX FRANCISCO. 



OSEMITE VALLEY.— Little need be said of this won¬ 
derful place, so widespread is its fame. Who has not 


heard of Yosemite, its towering cliffs, its waterfalls like 
cataracts from the skies, and its sublime and enchant¬ 


ing beauty? The hardships of travel to this famous 
resort have been very largely removed, and the season usually 
remains open till November ist. Don’t let the season pass 
without visiting Yosemite. 

The Geysers are always full of interest to the sight-seer, and 
one time is as good as another, if not better, the year round for 
a visit. The trip is short and easy, the expense light, and the 
route abounding in a variety of interesting and beautiful scenery 
the entire distance. This is one of the very popular health 
resorts in the State. 

The distance from San Francisco to Hotel Del Moni 
terey, is 125 miles. Trains leave Third and Townsenc 
twice a day, and the trip requires about three hours. The 
lies through some of the most fertile and highly impro> 
in California. For a distance of thirty miles from the 
olis the stranger catches glimpses from out of the depths 
groves of majestic oak trees and forests of flowering 
of the lovely suburban homes of San Francisco’s weal 
zens. Between Palo Alto and Mayfield the buildii 


£1 Capitan, 
Yosemite. 



Merced River and Glacier 
Point, Yosemite 






grounds of the Leland Stanford Junior University are 
seen to splendid advantage in the direction of the 
Sierra Morena Mountains. 

Half the beauty of the Del Monte grounds lies in its 
forest vegetation, made up principally of live-oaks and 
pines, of great size and incalculable age. Here all the 
peculiar and grotesque characteristics of the California live- 

De M:nte r , r , , , 

oaks appear m exaggerated form; and scattered among them, 
or elsewhere standing apart in dignified solitude, are the tower¬ 
ing, symmetrical pines, contrasting in all respects of form with 
the great sprawling oaks which they overlook. 

It is not alone in summer that flowers bloom at Del Monte. 
In the middle of winter the grounds are lively with the color 
of blooming roses, pansies, and countless other flowers, while 
stretches of the tenderest plants, with callas and heliotropes in 
prominent lead, are seen on every hand. The marvelous 
ribbon beds, with minute details of infinite variety of forms 
and combinations, exist in all their beauty throughout the year; 
and the section called Arizona, made up wholly of cacti, many 
of extreme sensitiveness to cold, remains continually in prickly 
and rebellious thrift. 

While so much has been written of the natural attractions of 
Del Monte, and there is so much to delight the eye and capti¬ 
vate the senses in the grounds and gardens, along the seashore 
and around the Eighteen-mile Drive, the ordinary pastimes of 
travelers have been somewhat overlooked. Of course 
here is music to while away the twilight hours, and there 
are hops in the ball-room for those who wish to par¬ 
ticipate therein; and for those more restfully disposed 
the reading-room affords a quiet retreat for glancing 
over the news of the day or familiarizing one’s self 
with the scenic beauties of the State, which are 
portrayed in neatly bound albums and grouped in 






tasty frames around the walls. Then, too, one may rest or chat 
in front of the great fireplace, whose cheery blaze is pleasantly 
comfortable almost any time of the year. 

Of the club-house, which is situated a short distance from 
the main building, it need only be said that refreshments are 
promptly served to those who need them, or who think they 
do; and in the rooms there are billiard tables and a splendid 
bowling alley. 

Out in the grounds there are lawn tennis, croquet, etc., and 
if one should be curiously inclined, or cares to study the prob¬ 
lem of how to “get out of a tight place,” he may 
get himself lost in the cypress intricacies 
of the maze and spend a short while 
trying to escape by the way he 
entered. This furnishes 
food for study, and possi¬ 
bly for the use of un¬ 
seemly adjectives. There 
are rambles on the beach, 
rowing on the lake, burro-cart 
riding for the children, and scores of 
other forms of recreation for young and old. 

A few hundred yards from the hotel is the 
bathing pavilion belonging to the hotel. “ Surf-bath¬ 
ing,” says the World , “is engaged in the whole year, the beach 
being among the best adapted for this purpose on the entire 
coast. 

“Two hundred and ten dressing-rooms are provided — one- 
half for ladies — each a double room, one part for dressing and 
the other for shower-bathing. For those who love to ‘ take a 
header ’ a long wharf has been built out into the bay from 
which to dive; but for those who prefer the water artificially 
heated, or who find the air and water of out-door bathing too 







Artists’ Point, 
Yosemite, 


bracing', the owners of the resort have provided the 
most complete and extensive in-door bathing facilities 
aff orded on the coast, or even in the entire United States. 
“ Near the sea stands a pavilion, the main building of which 
is 70 feet wide and 170 feet long. In this structure are four 
immense swimming-tanks, with a capacity of 275,000 gallons. 
Each tank is 36 feet wide and 40 long, the bottoms of the 
tanks sloping, thus varying the depth of the water.” 

Mount Shasta is now the focal point of sight-seeing in 
Northern California, and in many respects eclipses all other 
scenes. It is one of the mightiest of the Sierra’s towering 
giants, and is well worth seeing at any price. For nearly 200 
miles of the Shasta route its bold peak is in plain view, but is 
seen best at Sisson or Strawberry Valley. 

Castle Crags is another point of rare interest in the Shasta 
region, rapidly bounding into fame as one of the popular 
mountain resorts on the Coast. It abounds as few others in all 
sorts of attractions for the tourist and pleasure-seeker; and the 
Tavern of Castle Crags is without a peer for its homelike com¬ 
forts and luxuries. It derives its name from the mountainous 
granite crags in the vicinity. 

Santa Barbara has the most delightful of climates, and is 
justly prominent among the world’s famous seaside resorts. It 
is a haven of perennial sunshine, and is fanned year in and 
year out by soft, balmy sea-breezes. It is easily reached by 
rail, and only a few hours’ travel from the main line. Resorts 
of similar character are Santa Monica, Long Beach, Catalina 
Island, and San Diego, only a short ride from Los Angeles. 

Bartlett Springs.— The wonderful medicinal properties of 
the water from these springs have earned for the place a 
world-wide fame as a sanitarium for the relief of broken down 
humanity. More than 10,000 people have visited this place in 
a single season, most of them seeking the cures to be found 




there. Pleasure-seekers also find it a fc* 
delightful place to spend the summe' 
months. 

Napa Soda Springs is a delightful resort the year round. 
Its commanding location is one of its chief attractions, afford¬ 
ing as it does a magnificent view of the beautiful Napa Valley, 
San Pablo Bay, and a wide expanse of surrounding country. 
Nor have pains and expense been spared in making the place 
itself a perfect bower of loveliness. Napa Soda is known in 
every part of the world where the luxury of beverages is 
indulged. 

Santa Cruz is by the sea, where the wild waves talk; but 
their fascinating tales must be heard if their charms would be 
known. Tens of thousands rush to this delightful resort every 
season to enjoy a breeze from the sea, a dash in the surf, and a 
stroll on the beach. The Big Tree Grove is but a half hour’s 
ride from Santa Cruz. 

Paso Robles Hot Springs will always command attention. 
They abound in hot water strongly impregnated with sulphur 
and iron, and are known to be wonderfully efficacious in the 
cure of rheumatism and otherwise restoring impaired health. 
Besides they are beautifully situated, and the visitor finds there 
no end of diversion. 

Harbin Springs, situated in Lake County, seventeen miles 
from Calistoga, is among the popular health resorts on the 
Coast. Hot sulphur baths and other mineral waters, delightful 
climate and scenery, hunting, fishing, and luxurious living are 
a few of its attractions. 

Soda Bay is a charming nook on the margin of Clear Lake 
about forty-six miles from Calistoga, and, as a pleasure resort 
at which to spend a few weeks in the summer, has few superiors 
anywhere. Boating, one of the most exhilarating of sports, is 
a great attraction at this place. Tourists who have visited the 


A Hacienda. 




lakes of Switzerland declare that the natural attractions of Soda 
Bay are quite their equal. 

Many other attractive places might be named if space would 
permit. The Lick Observatory, on the summit of Mount 
Hamilton, should not be overlooked; the Big Trees of Mariposa 
and Calaveras are wonderful sights; Anderson Springs, Lake 



Park Scenes in S-uthern California. 


County, is a charming retreat; Siegler, Howard, Adams, and 
Gordon Springs, also in Lake County, all possess great attrac¬ 
tions; Byron Hot Springs, Contra Costa County, and Santa 
Ysabel Hot Springs, of San Luis Obispo County, will always 
be popular for their wonderful cures. 





















ON THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 




HE Pacific Mail Steamship Company and the 
Occidental & Oriental Company’s fleet of 
ocean steamers, which will carry the traveler 
to Japan, leaves nothing to be desired in that 
line. The accommodations for saloon passen¬ 
gers are delightfully perfect. The cabins are 
situated amidships immediately forward of the 
engines and boilers, in the quietest and best part 


of the ships. The saloons and dining rooms are approached by 
very handsome entrance halls from the upper deck and from 
them there is access to the saloon deck by easy double stair¬ 
cases, fitted with bronze and mahogany balustrades. The 
saloons are beautifully decorated and make most comfortable 
apartments. The ladies’ cabin and smoking rooms are on the 
saloon decks, and are models of artistic decoration. The sleep¬ 
ing cabins are on the main deck, and are large, airy, perfectly 
ventilated, and elegantly furnished. 

Throughout the ships are lighted by the most approved elec¬ 
trical apparatus of the incandescent system, each cabin ^ 
being independently illuminated. The ships are divided 
into eight water-tight compartments, any of which 
may be penetrated without seriously imperiling the ves¬ 
sel. The improved bulkhead water-tight doors are 
greatly superior to the old system of bulkhead openings. 







Steamship Belgic. 


Provisions against fire are complete, and any out¬ 
break in any part of the vessel can be quickly 
brought into subjection. The life-saving appli¬ 
ances are also of the most approved order. Two 
large liferafts, stowed on the deck-house forward, 
and eight large lifeboats, hanging in their davits, 
are thoroughly equipped, ready for immediate 
use. 

Chinese servants, in caps and snowy blouses, minister silently 
with velvet tread, automatic in their perfection. Electric fans, 
above the table, replace the flapping flounce of the Eastern 
punkah, and the creaking bar and the sleepy punkah-boy with 
his string is gone forever. Under these conditions, coupled 
with the creature comforts of the Far East, life becomes very 
endurable and the spell of delightful days is upon us before 
many Pacific meridians are left behind. 

We have commenced our journey at the right time, when the 
beautiful foliage of the Pacific is touched by the late autumn 
sun and the broad Pacific is calmest. Breezes blow gently 
across the decks and are laden with the ozone of the ocean. 
They lull us to rest in the night-time and make the days halcyon 
in their enjoyment. Scarlet and crimson stripes and gorgeous 
puffs of brightest gold light up and decorate the western sky 
long before darkness interferes. “ Then comes the big bright 
silver moon, throwing across the rippling waves its long, wide, 
\ trembling, silver bridge, broadest and brightest of all the airy 
\ structures, with one pier by our ship, the other in the golden- 
dappled garden of the Hesperides. Over it, through all the live- 
ng night, trip troops of ocean fairies, bringing us bits of 
auteous golden dreams and carrying forth to sleeping ones 
r bright dream-thoughts of our home and loved ones pillowed 
re.” 

e Pacific Ocean spreads out over an area of 80,000,000 square 























miles, covering nearly all of the Western Hemisphere. If 
Balboa, when he was dragging the timbers of his ship across 
the Isthmus of Darien, 382 years ago, from the Atlantic to the 
Pacific shore, rebuilding his vessel there to sail on the great 
ocean waters, if Balboa had been gifted with supernatural vision 
he would have seen these Pacific waters laving the eastern shores 
of Asia on the one hand and western coasts of the two great 
American continents on the other, reaching almost to the birth¬ 
places of the icebergs of either pole, embracing the heat of the 
torrid zones, the cold of the frigid climes, embracing all the 
climates of the world in its vast limits. Thousands on thou¬ 
sands of islands would have been seen by this same Balboa, 
who, in our modern day, was first to sail upon this ocean, could 
he have been gifted with supernatural vision, dotting the 
mighty sea like emeralds; with the tempest, typhoon, and 
hurricane pursuing their furious course over the broad expanse 
of waters, subdued long before the transit of the great sea is 
performed — walled in and held back by the placid seas sur¬ 
rounding them. But in the time of year our tourist commences 
his journey, following in the main this help of three combined 
railroad systems and two steamship companies, the Pacific has 
grown peaceful and calm, and the days blossom and blow under 





the tropical sun, while the whole of North America lies buried 
under a mantle of snow. 

Of the great ocean’s floor, a deep vale, majestic and immense 
in area, lying miles below the level of our 
present shore-lines, it might be said that, 
if the water could be taken away from 
the great basin of the Pacific, not many 
centuries would elapse before its floor 
would resemble other portions of the 
land; that, if it were possible for the 
human vision to encompass the scene, 



Steamship China. 






Harbor of Honolulu, 
Hawaii. 



the valleys, plains, deserts, the moun¬ 
tain chains and ravines, the hills and 
glades, the stately course of rivers, or the 
meandering of brooks, would, like a vast panorama, 
enchant the view. The plumed tufts of the cocoanut tree, or 
its northern neighbor the pine, would wave in the breeze or 
bend in the storm. The present home of the leviathan of the 
deep and the busy little coral insect would give place to other 
forms of life, and the islands would fade from view like the 
slow awakening from a summer dream. 

Hardly has the voyage around the world begun; hardly have 
we become enamored of our new surroundings on the float¬ 
ing palace (as our good steamship is known); hardly are friend¬ 
ships formed that very often last through life, when out of the 
Pacific Ocean rises the group of islands situated between paral¬ 
lels 18° 50' and 23 0 5' north latitude, and between the meridi¬ 
ans 154 0 40' and 160° 50' west longitude, known to us as the 
Hawaiian Group. The importance of this group arises quite as 
much from this advantageous location as from its resources. 
Lying at the “ cross-roads of the North Pacific,” at about the 
center of the great lines of commerce from British Columbia, 
San Francisco, Nicaragua, and Panama, on the east, to Japan, 
China, New Zealand, and Australia, on the west and south, it 
will largely conduce to the naval and commercial supremacy of 
whatever country gains possession of it. The Hawaiian Islands 
are less verdant than the islands of the South Pacific, but 
grander with loftier mountains. To one voyaging thither 
expecting to see islands of tropical beauty, with orange trees 
growing at the very beach and birds of paradise flitting through 

the forest, the first view is rather disappointing. 
On the windward sides of these islands, how¬ 
ever, there is as wonderful a beauty of verdure 
as in the islands of the South Pacific. The 





glories of this vegetation are indescribable. Its most striking 
features are its vines, especially its palm-like Ieie that festoons 
the forests, its parasites that make strange hanging-gardens 
high on the trees, and its ferns, of which there are 300 species, 
varying from gem-like forms, exquisite as butterfly wings, to 
trees thirty feet high, as graceful in figure and delicate in 
pattern as the finest palms. 

The volcanoes of these islands (Kilauea, Mauna Loa, and 
Hualalai) are of surpassing interest to tourists and scientists, 
and are comparatively easy to visit from Honolulu. Here is an 
opportunity to behold the operations of that power which, under 
cosmic influences, it is supposed reared the islands, the conti¬ 
nents, and the mountain ranges of our world, having raged with 
devouring fire over all the face of nature. Here, at almost all 
times, one may look into nature’s crucible and imagine the for¬ 
mation of the crude fabric from which by flood and fire and 
glacial action have been developed all the minerals and metals 
of earth and by forces of like the varied and beautiful forms of 
the vegetable and animal kingdoms. 

Honolulu, the capital and chief city of the islands, is a most 
interesting town, very reminiscent of a city in the United 
States, except for a rare beauty of tropical vegetation. It has 
street cars, telegraph and telephone lines, and electric lights. 
The natives dress like Americans and are engaged in important 
work as teachers, lawyers, ministers, and officers of govern¬ 
ment. Honolulu is an opal gem of many colors set in a diadem 
of jewels; a city of refinement and culture and beauty, affording 
to the sight-seer abundant opportunity for indulging his criti¬ 
cal eye, giving him new ideas of these vast countries which are 
to be visited upon this round-the-world tour. 

But Honolulu and Hawaii can not be for- 
ever admired; there are other and even 
more interesting places yet to see, and 



1 niriiim 1 

nmimiii 




Palace, 

Hawaii 









once more our tourist is afloat on the Pacific 
with a good ship to bear him along over the 
bosom of cobalt, passing islands on the way, 
until the far-away outline of Japan comes in 
view. Over Tantalus and the twin peaks of 
all along the corrugated summits of the high 
Native style of Ridmg, uplands, mazy drifts of pearl-white color show like islands of 
foam indolently between land and sky; a rainbow possibly may 
come down out of heaven, touching with a quiet flood of loveli¬ 
ness the hills in the west, while here and there glints of check¬ 
ered green leave upon your mind memory pictures that con¬ 
tinue always beautiful. 

Crossing the line is a great incident of a Pacific voyage; and 
the 180th meridian, that marks the division between 
the eastern and western hemispheres and is the exact 
antipode of Greenwich, lies about five days off the Jap¬ 
anese coast. In going out to Japan a day is dropped 
.. from the calendar, and in going eastward the day is 
doubled. One goes to bed on Monday night and 
awakens on Wednesday morning, or, on the return trip, 
he rises to live over again and repeat the incidents of the day 
before. The imaginative are bidden to feel the grating of the 
ship’s keel when the meridian is crossed, while the convivial 
celebrate the crossing of the line by breaking “a small bottle.” 
The up-hill of the vo3 r age is over and the descent down hill from 
the great meridian out of the west and into the east is begun. 

Across our bow is Fujiyama’s pearly cone, which has grown 
from a pin’s point to a majestic peak, and the steamer coursing 
up the picturesque Yedo Bay makes fast at her buoy in Yoko¬ 
hama harbor. Japan encircles us. We are, after seventeen 
davpj^f ocean travel, encompassed by the Mikado’s Empire. 



Lava Flow of 1881, 
Hawaii. 




ISSS 

ST H E 


MIKADO’S EMPIRE 


Buddhist Temple, 

Nagasaki, Japan. 

y OKOHAMA, which twenty-five years ago was still a 
small fishing village, is now a considerable town 
with nearly 100,000 people and of/ c 
great importance in foreign trade] 
an outpost on the route from San Francisco tq 
Hongkong or Shanghai. Its harbor abounds in 
life and activity, having a depth sufficient tcj 
float the largest vessels. Mail steamers are con-Wj 
stantly coming and going; ships of war from all! 
the different maritime powers have their rendez¬ 
vous here, while the commercial navies, as well 
as the steam packets carrying merchandise, an 
abundantly represented by numerous smaller vessels. street Decorations 

J 1 -q Holiday Season, 

Yokohama is the principal treaty port of Japan, and was Yokohama ' Ja P an - 
opened to foreign trade in July, 1859. It is situated on the Bay of 
Yokohama, in latitude 35 0 26' 11" north, and in longitude 139 0 
39' 20" east. At Yokohama the traveler suddenly enters a new 
and curious world ; as he leaves the steamer he leaves the civi¬ 
lization to which he is accustomed, and lands, abruptly and with 
no transition stage, in a civilization entirely different, sur¬ 
rounded by the strangest sights and sounds. Outside the 
foreign quarter are seen all the typical features of Japanese 
life, tea-houses, temples, theaters, shops, etc. Nearly every 
style of Japanese costume and phase of native life may be 
observed in the streets, and the jinrikishas, or wheeled 







in the picture. 


look to our American eyes, accustomed as they 
are to the tall buildings of the western shore, now 


vehicles drawn by men, form a striking feature 


Very picturesque does the land of the Mikado 


thousands of miles behind us. Everything seems upon a dif¬ 


ferent plane. We are truly in a country abounding in the 
beautiful, the strange, the unexpected. 

From Yokohama and Tokyo may be seen the great cone Fuji¬ 
yama rising grandly from the lowlands, rugged and broken, a 
very Colossus among the Brownies. To the Japanese it may be, 
and doubtless is, “ the matchless,” for which, as Kempfer goes on 
to say, “ poets can not find words, nor painters skill and colors, 
sufficient to represent this perfect cone, truncated only at the 
extreme pinnacle.” 

In Yokohama, which means “ across the bar,” is found a curi¬ 
ously mixed-up city — a medley of all nations and of all sorts 
of dress, undress, vehicles, and architecture. Broad streets, 
narrow streets — a paradise of people of leisure, Mecca of curious 
traders and those who sell more staple goods. The moment 
you land a dozen ’riksha men will importune you to take a seat 
on the overgrown perambulator. Of course you will select the 
new-fangled thing, and be formally introduced to a Yankee 
invention, now one of the reliable modes of travel of the Far 
East. 

During the stay excursions will be made to Enoshima and 
Daibutsu, the spot where the celebrated bronze statue of the 
Great Buddha stands. This celebrated monument of Japanese 
art stands 49 feet 7 inches high and is 97 feet 2 inches in circum¬ 
ference. It is situated in a beautiful and well wooded garden. 
On the way to Daibutsu will be visited the remains of the 
town of Kamakura, the ancient seat of government in the east 
n 1192 to the middle of the fifteenth century. 







Kamakura, once a city of great importance, is 
now a quiet seaside village. It contains several 
temples of great interest and beauty. 

Enoshima is romantically situated on a pretty island, and is 
reached by a long foot bridge. There are several shrines and 
a sacred cavern to be visited. Many native shops and tea¬ 
houses add to the interest of the visit. 

Three days can be devoted to an excursion by railway, 
jinrikisha, or other conveyance, to Miyanoshita. Situated 1,400 
feet above sea level in Hakone Mountains, Miyanoshita is one 
of the favorite resorts for foreign residents and aristocratic 
Japanese. Accommodations can be reserved for a party at 
the Fujiya Hotel, celebrated for its superior furnishings, cuisine, 
and service, the latter being performed, even to carrying the 
baggage, building fires, and blacking boots, by a number of 
daintily robed and very pretty Japanese girls. The place is a 
center for a large number of very pretty walks and excursions. 
A half-mile walk to Kiga, with its tea-house, fish pond, and 
quaint garden; a thirty-minute climb to the lookout on the top 
of the hill to the right of the Fujiya, from whence a magnifi¬ 
cent view is had; a quarter-mile walk to Dogashima, down in 
the ravine in view of the hotel, will repay the slight exertion 
required. Another pleasant walk of five miles is Ojigoku, 
elevation 3,500 feet, known as “ Rig Hell,” or place of the 
boiling mud. One day will be devoted to an excursion to 
Hakone, six miles distant, the journey being made in kagos, or 
chairs. Lunch will be taken at a clean little inn called Tsuta- 
ya, situated on the edge of the lake, from which, looking across 
the water and beyond the surrounding hills, we have a fine 
view of snow-capped Fuji. 

Leave Miyanoshita by jinrikisha for Kodzu, where the train 
will be taken for Nagoya. Nagoya is an important and nour¬ 
ishing city of 1 <80,000 inhabitants. The chief attraction is the 



T «a House 
Yokoharra, Japan 







Japanese Pleasure 
Boat. 


P 


Castle, built in 1610. For several years it 
was used as a garrison, but has since been 
transferred to the household department, to 
be reserved as a historical monument. One 
of the celebrated pair of gold dolphins which crown 
the roof of the five-story donjon was sent to the Vienna 
Exhibition in 1873, and on the way home was wrecked in the 
M. M. vS. vS. “Nil.” It was recovered with great difficulty, 
and once again glitters all over the city. A splendid view 
of the town, the sea, the rice fields, and mountains is obtained 
from the fifth story of the tower. Other places worth visit¬ 
ing are Higashi Hongwanji, a famous Buddhist Temple; Ken- 
chuji, a handsome monastery; and the Shippo Kwaisha factory, 
where the celebrated porcelain and cloisonne ware is manu¬ 
factured. 

Tokyo, the capital of Japan (until the restoration called 
“Yedo”), which is situated at the north of the Bay of Yedo, 
has a circumference of twenty-four miles, and covers a surface 
of nearly thirty-five square miles. Jinrikishas will be provided 
for visiting all the principal places and objects of interest in 
and around the city. Among the most notable are the mor¬ 
tuary temples of the Shoguns, at Sheba and Uyeno Parks; the 
ancient temple of Imanuon at Asakusa; the Zoological and 
Botanical Gardens; the Imperial University; the Haina Rikiu 
Gardens, an imperial pleasure ground where landscape gar¬ 
dening has reached its limit; the Arsenal, the Castle, etc. 
Tokyo, not so very long since a village of the fisherman, is now 
the home of the Mikado, and contains a population of about 
1,400,000. It covers an area of about 100 square miles, contains 
220,000 houses, and not less than 3,200 temples. The invasion 
of modern ideas has not been as marked as one would suppose 
in a city of such size and importance, and yet Tokyo is not 
Altogether a picture of the past. It has steam and horse rail- 



A 1 raveling Chair, Japan. 




ways, electric lights, and telephones. It has many first-class 
hotels and restaurants; theaters, public parks, museums, bazaars, 
and other places of amusement are plentiful. 

The Sumida, or “ Great River,” runs through the city. The 
Castle occupies a commanding position on a hill a little to the 
westward of the center of the city. Within the Castle formerly 
stood the Imperial Palace, but the destructive fire of the 3d of 
April, 1872, consumed this ancient and magnificent building. 
Since this great fire, by which more than 5,000 houses were 
destroyed, the Mikado (emperor) has taken up his residence in 
one of the Daimio’s palaces at Akasaka. The Imperial 
Garden (Fukiage) is situated within the inclosure of the Castle. 
Among the places much resorted to by visitors is the ancient 
Temple of Imanuon at Asakusa, not far from Uyeno, one of the 
most beautiful, most venerated, and most frequented in Japan. 
At the right of the temple is a fine pagoda. 

The United States legation is in Azabu, west of Shiba Park. 
Leave in the morning by railway for Nikko. Nikko is the 
great wonder of Japan, and its shrines and temples are 
celebrated wherever the Buddhist religion exists. It lies in a 
lovely valley, through which a clear mountain river rushes, and 
is surrounded by high hills clad to the summit with magnifi¬ 
cent cryptomeria trees, which are, again, overtopped by the 
famous Nikko range of mountains. 

Here is the burial place of Tye-mitsu, the third Shogun of 
the Takugawa line; also the magnificent mausoleum of Iyeyasu 
Sambutsudo, or the hall of the three Buddhas, and near it the 
graceful five-storied pagoda. The number of beautiful and 
notable buildings to be seen at Nikko is very great. Many of 
them are exquisite specimens of Japanese art of various 
periods, and for richness of carving and coloring are certainly 
unsurpassed by any other productions of human skill to be 
found in any part of the world. 


Women Spinni 
Weaving Silk, 


ng and 
Japan. 


Sorin-to .— A cylindrical copper column forty-two feet high. 
This pillar is one of the six which are said to exist in different 
parts of Japan, and was erected in the year 1643. 

From Nikko a very fine excursion will be made to Lake 
Chiu-zen-ji, 4,375 feet above the level of the sea. 

On the way to this lake the visitor will pass several water¬ 
falls. The Cascades of Ken-kon-no-taki, according to Japanese 
statements, are 750 feet in height. 

Kioto, the heart of old Japan, is the most fascinating city 
in the Empire. Among the many places to be visited are the 

following: The Palace and the Castle; the 
great Buddhist Temples of Chionin-Kiomidzu, 
Daibutsu, San-ju-san-gen-do, and the two 
Hongwanjis — the Higashi Hongwanji is 
the largest temple in Japan, covering 52,380 
square feet of ground, and rising to a height 
of 126 feet; the Gion, the great Shinto 
shrine; the Kinkakuji and the Ginkakuji, 
two modern landscape gardens of Japan; 
the Yasaka Pagoda, the china shops, etc. 
A pleasant excursion will be made to Hozu for the purpose of 
shooting the celebrated rapids to Arashiyama. 

From 793 until 1868, when the revolution abolished the feudal 
system, Kioto was the capital of the country. It covers an 
area of twenty-five square miles, and has a population of 
nearly half a million. It is watered by the Kutsuragawa 
on the west, and by the Kamogawa which issues from the 
northern hills, and traverses the whole of the city, spanned 
by numerous bridges. It is inclosed on three sides by moun¬ 
tains, on the slopes of which are said to be no less than forty- 
five temples. 

Kioto is justly celebrated for its beautiful porcelain, its fine 
lacquers, bronzes, silk crepe embroidered stuffs, and fans. 










Foreign ladies usually defer their shopping until they reach 
Kioto; probably the assortment of beautiful silk goods and 


embroideries displayed in some of the principal shops is unsur¬ 
passed on the face of the globe. The finest specimens of 
bronze and cloisonne are seen at the shops of Namikawa, 
Shojodo, and Nogawa. Curio shops, book stores, and porce¬ 
lain establishments abound on every hand. The 
lover of the antique will find his elysium in the 
narrow street called Manjujidori. Kioto is also 
noted for its dancing girls. 

The traveler leaves Kioto by early morning 
train for Osaka. This is the second city in 
Japan in point of size and commercial impor¬ 
tance, and has not inaptly been termed the 
“Venice of the Far East,” owing to the man¬ 
ner in which it is intersected by canals. It 
is built on the banks of the river Ajikawa, 
about five miles from the sea. 

The most imposing, and at the same time 
the most interesting, object to be seen in 
Osaka, is the Castle, erected in 1583 by one of the 
Shoguns (the famous Tai-So-Sama). Though less extensive 
than that of Tokyo, it is a much grander and more striking 
edifice; and it is, indeed, on the whole, the first among the 
many hundreds of castles in Japan. There are also several 
temples of interest, one of which has a fine five-storied pagoda. 
Osaka is the seat of numerous industries, and the Imperial Mint 
is located there. 

Of the harbor of Nagasaki, which is situated in the extreme 
western edge of the Empire, opposite the mainland of China, 
much might be said in praise. It is easily the most beautiful 
harbor in the world. About a mile in width and three or four 
in length, it opens up such a vista of rest, peace, and content- 



Great Bronzo Statu® of 
Kamakura, Japa 





Mikado's Palace, 
Kyoto, Japan, 


ment that one longs to remain forever and feast the eyes on its 
beauties. The hills around it are some 1,500 feet in height, 
and their surface is divided and broken up by long ridges and 
deep glens and valleys which extend far up toward the sum¬ 
mit. Here and there great guns frown from the embattle- 
mented hills overlooking the bay, and one realizes how 
impossible it would be for a foreign power to accomplish its 
destruction. Right ahead is the bay of Nagasaki, which means 
“long cape,” its lofty top crested with fine trees, through 
which the white sheds covering other guns are seen partly 
hidden in the brush-wood, and with a precipitous cliff going 
sheer down to the nearest water’s edge lies the noted island 
of Pappenberg. Barely a mile in circumference, that conical 
hill, the most picturesque object in the view presented to the 
eye of the tourist, was, 328 years ago, the scene of a barbarous 
massacre, and from that cliff thousands of men, women, and 
children were driven at the pike’s point in preference to tramp¬ 
ling on the sacred emblem of the cross. No Christian foot is 
even now allowed to tread its shores, and lovely as is the spot, 
it has a deeper interest than even its beauty excites. 

The visitor to Nagasaki will not omit to inspect De-Shima, 
the ancient factory of the Dutch, who, separated and watched 
like thieves, and subjected to many other humiliating con¬ 
ditions, there enjoyed the great advantages of a monopoly 
of trade from 1639 to 1859. Piere Loti has so charmingly 
described many Nagasaki scenes in “ Mme. Chrysantheme,” 
that its readers will easily identify his locale. In Nagasaki 
begins that pretty little romance, “ The Viewing of the Cherry 
Blossoms.” 

At Nagasaki connection is made with the steamers to China 
and we leave the beauties of Japan for other eyes to follow us. 







CE LEST 1A L KINGDOM 


dge 

City, 


HE Chinese are a people worthy of close study. Vast as 
the area of China is, there are many places closed entirely 
to foreigners, and it is doubted if a quarter of its immense 
population know that there has been a war between Japan 
c h'hd China, and that the latter power has concluded a treaty of 
peace with the Wrojan (pigmies, as the Japanese are called), at 
great expense to the country of the Mings. 

We have circled outside of all the islands of Japan, and, after 
three days at sea, anchor at the Woosung Bar. Across the 
turbid waters of the Yellow Sea there shows a low, brown line, 
the outermost edge, the farthest rim, of the old mysterious con¬ 
tinent of Asia, the real Cathay. 

The arms of the signal station at 
the mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang 
wave, and the telegraph car¬ 
ries the news of the ship’s 
arrival to Shanghai, and 
launches start to meet us 
at the Woosung Bar. 

Entering by the 
north gate at the end 
of the French settle¬ 
ment, the visitor 
may balance 
himself on one 
of the passen- 



Woman of Northern 
China. 



Great Wall, Looking Northeast. 






Group of Chinese. 




ger wheelbarrows and be trundled around the walls to the west 
or south gate and then walk through the city to the north gate. 
He will see the streets lined with silk, fur, china, and other shops, 
and such swarms of people in the seven-feet-wide thoroughfares 
and side crevices as support the estimate of 400,000 inhabitants. 
The three drives of Shanghai are out the Babbling Well Road 
and back, out the Sickaway Road and back, and down the river 
to the Point and back. Very interesting is a trip by house-boat 
through the network of rivers, creeks, and canals that cover the 
country. On the boat one lives as luxuriously as on shore, and 
Shanghai is an epicure’s and sybarite’s abode. 

A blue, blue sea, a barren brown coast, mountains of burnt 
rock rising sheer from the exquisite sapphire waters and slip¬ 
ping through that veritable needle’s eye of the Lymoon Pass, 
the big white steamer sweeps into the splendid amphitheater 
of Hongkong Harbor, a watery area thronged with merchant¬ 
men and men-of-war of all nations. 

Hongkong the most eastern of British possessions is situ¬ 
ated off the coast of Kwang-Tung Province, at the mouth of 
the Canton River. The island of Hongkong is about eleven 
miles long and from two to five miles broad. Its circumference 

is about twenty-seven miles. The harbor of 
Hongkong is one of the finest and most 
beautiful in the world, having an area of 
ten square miles, and with its diversified 
scenery and varied shipping 
presents an animated and 
imposing spectacle. 
The city of Victoria is 
magnificently situ¬ 
ated, houses—many 
of them large and 
handsome — rising 



Bronze Lions at Wou-Shou-Shau Gate, 
Pekin, China. 







tier upon tier, and several bungalows are visible 
on the very summits of the hills. 

An excursion can be made to the summit of the 
Victoria Peak by tramway and sedan chair. 

From Hongkong an excursion can be made to 
Canton. The passage up the Canton River, which 
is made in well appointed steamboats, is a most inter¬ 
esting one. There is some magnificent mountain scenery. 
The mountains of Lantao (rising 4,000 feet), the villages, pago¬ 
das, and distant mountain ranges combine to hold the attention 
of the traveler. Canton is an essentially Chinese city; and its 
narrow streets, crowded with people; its many shops, where all 
descriptions of native wares are exposed for sale—and where 
many articles are made in full view of the passer-by—are full 
of interest to the visitor. This emporium of Chinese commerce 
is situated on the Chu-Kiang, or Pearl River, in latitude 23 0 7' 
10" north, and longitude 113 0 14' 30" east, and is the capital of 
the province of Kwangtung. Canton proper extends to a 
breadth of two miles, is about six miles in circumference, and 
is inclosed by walls about twenty feet thick and from twenty- 
five to forty feet high. 

Canton is famous for its old curios and bronzes, ivory carv¬ 
ings, embroideries, silverware, blackwood furniture, screens, 
and ornaments, and a great variety of jade, porcelain, silk, and 
grass-matting productions. A visit to the curio shops of 
Canton is one of the most interesting experiences it is possible 
to imagine. The typical feature of Canton is the floating 
city. Many thousands of its inhabitants live in the 
innumerable house-boats moored in the river and 
network of creeks through the city. These people 
form a separate class from the landsmen, and are 
born, live, marry, and die on the water. 

The gates by which entrance is gained into 



Chinese R. 








the city are sixteen in number, and two water gates. Sights 


Native wheeibarrovworth seeing in Canton are, in the western suburbs: Temple of 


China. 


500 Buddhas, jade, stone-cutting shops, lacquered ware shops, 
glass manufactory, Temple of Longevity, silk weavers, Tsing- 
Chung Temple. 

Old City — Flowery pagoda, five-storied pagoda, prisons 
(Nam Hoi district), Examination Hall, Temple of Five Genii, 
Emperor’s Temple. 

Outside of East Gate — Old Men’s Home, City of the Dead. 

New City—Embroidery shops, jade stone shops, ivory shops, 
Roman Catholic Cathedral. (The French Mission has erected 
this large and handsome Gothic cathedral, with two lofty 
towers.) 

Outside of South Gate — Execution ground, flower boats, 
Chinese restaurant, Chinese tiffon shops, pawnshops, tortoise 
shops, rice paper pictures, curiosity shops, opium smoking 
saloons, dog and cat meat restaurant. 

Honam — Honam Temple, a garden behind the ancestral 
Temple of Mg’clan family. Shamin Island, half a mile long by 
half a mile broad, is the foreigners’ settlement. 

China, however, must be left behind and returning to Hong¬ 
kong from Canton, we take a coast steamer for a trip through 
the China vSea to Singapore, where the delightful climate and 
evergreen verdure make us forget the cares of life. The ride 
is full of incident, this skirting the coast of Asia wherein the 
Chinese Empire lies, to be awakened from a sleep of centuries, 



now that Japan, Russia, 
Germany, England, Amer¬ 
ica, and the civilized coun¬ 
tries of the world have a 
right to enter, and, shoul¬ 
der to shoulder, work for 
the development of China’s 
material resources. 


In the Nau-Kow Pass Below the 
Great Wall. 




ON THE MALACCA COAST. 




INGA PORE, after the charming ride down the coast, 
arouses one from the dreams of China past to a realiza¬ 
tion that he is approaching a strange country, where 
new types of people and new conditions are to be met 
with. We are now among the Malayans, Singapore being located 
on the island of that name at the southern point of the Malay 
Peninsula. Formerly belonging to the Sultan of Johore, it is 
now owned by the English, and its admirable position on the 
highway to China is readily seen, being selected as the strategic 
and commercial center of the English possessions in Malaysia. 
Malacca was until recently the city of largest influence, but 
Singapore, the “ Lion City,” which, notwithstanding its Sanscrit 
name, attesting old Hindu influences, has become the leading 
town in that section. In the busy shipping quarter the mag¬ 
nificent docks, over twenty feet deep, and the extensive quays are 
crowded with vessels from every part of the globe, while the 
bazaars and warehouses are stocked with the manufactures of 
Europe and America. Situated as it is, the climate of Singapore 
is most equable, the mercury ranging from seventy to seventy- 
five degrees from month to month and from year to year. A 
visit to Whampoa Gardens should not be omitted. In the first 
place the street leading to it is a perpetual delight. The road is 
wide and well kept, and on either side are stately palms with 
their broad, drooping leaves; tall, slender bamboos in feathery 
clumps; trailing vines and flowers of the most brilliant hues. 







The garden itself does not differ widely from others to be found 

House Boats, China. . . . 

m harther India, but includes within moderate compass a great 
variety of foreign or exotic plants in addition to the numerous 
species native to the Malay Peninsula. There is an aviary in 
the garden also, and the groups of the tiniest birds in all the 
world will detain the observer longer than any other feature of 
the whole collection. 

From here the course of the steamer is nearly north as it 
runs up the narrow sea that lies between Sumatra and the 
Malayan Peninsula. Penang, the chief town of the British 
possession, Prince of Wales Island, is touched at, and then, after 
rounding the north point of Sumatra, a western course is set 
for Ceylon. 










ISLE OF CEYLON. 


T HE island of Ceylon, on first approach, is a wonder¬ 
fully attractive bit of land. It rises out of the Indian 
Ocean almost directly into mountain heights. Clad 
in forest and jungle from the margin to the summit, 
it presents a pleasing variety of shade and hue. There can be 
no finer effect than that produced by the cloud and mountain 
views in the light of the morning sun. 

Point cle Galle, a decaying port, which some imaginative 
writers have identified with ancient Tarshish, whence ships 
brought treasures for King Solomon, was twenty years ago the 
point of departure for steamers for India, China, and Australia, 
but the business has been transferred to Colombo, the capital, a 
few miles to the west and north of Point de Galle, which is left in 
sleepy decay that has overtaken so many cities in the Orient. 
The road between these two points is one of rare attractive¬ 
ness and is traversed by rail and post coach. It has nothing 
of the majesty and grandeur of the road to Kandy, but is such 
as might be selected by one whose strength was not equal to 
rugged exercise, or one already sated with stupendous scenes 
and charming novelties. 

The city contains a population of about 120,000, and some fine 
buildings lately constructed. The Bridge of Boats, the Museum, 
the Cinnamon Gardens, and Calany Temple will be visited. In 
the suburbs are modest dwellings of Dutch and Portuguese; i 
the ancient Pettah quarter, or Black Town, is inhabited by th er>! 
native races. 


P't'odfl • r» South Chim 









V'-** 



Gods in the 
Temple, China. 


Kandy, the former capital, will give the tourist a better 
idea of the Cingalese than simply visiting Colombo and 
passing on. Like most oriental capitals, Kandy has a 
thrilling history, but is of no great present interest, except 
as it recalls the peculiar glories of the past. It occupies a 
pleasant spot well up in the mountains, has a pretty lake, some 
beautiful cascades and amply shaded streets. The chief attrac¬ 
tion is the Paredynia, or public garden, some three miles out, 
but easily reached by rail or carriage. It is certainly a model 
of its kind, and reputed to be the best collection of tropical 
plants in the world. Here we become acquainted with the ill- 
famed Upas tree which, the story books have told us, is so 
destructive to every form of life. The “ deadly Upas ” is a 
harmless plant if let alone. It exudes a baleful gum, where an 
incision has been made, said to be poisonous to the blood; but 
it does not taint the air, or deal death to insects, birds, or men. 
At Kandy there is a Buddhist temple of peculiar sanctity, the 
temple of Maligawa. It is a massive structure of Indian archi¬ 
tecture, surrounded by a moat with drawbridge like a fort, and 
was erected as a shrine and safe depository for Buddha’s tooth, 
the most revered, perhaps, of all the relics of Ceylon, if not of 
the Buddhist faith. 

The Governor’s Palace, the Library, a fine building erected on 
pillars and built on a lake, are among the places to be visited. 
The Botanical Gardens at Peradenia contain the finest speci¬ 
mens of tropical plants and trees of precious wood. The 
Dalada’s Temple was built purposely to hold Buddha’s tooth, 
and another temple his collar bone. Adam’s Peak maybe seen 
at a distance. About fifty miles from Kandy, and 2,600 feet 
above the level of the sea, is the sanitarium of Neura Elliya. 

From Kandy an excursion that will be fruitful in its rare 
intercst can be made to Anaradhapoora, the capital of 2,000 
years ago, where is to be seen the sacred Bo tree, which still 



stands near the center of the town and not far from the brazen 
palace. It is more than 2,100 years old, according to the legend, 
and next to Buddha’s tooth is the most sacred relic in Ceylon. 
It is little more than a superannuated remnant now, but the 
more revered, possibly, on that account. 

But the glory of Ceylon is in the past. 

Before night had set in upon the Nile, before the glory of 
Greece had faded, when Rome was slowly rising to supremacy, 
this island was inhabited by a powerful race, which, departing, 
left monuments behind scarcely inferior to those of the great 
nations of antiquity. And to these not only the tourist 
making a trip around the world, but the antiquarian and the 
archaeologist, may repair with profit. 



Smekf* o r Rain Tempi** Oini 




INDIA. 



O see India to the best advantage one should cross the 
channel of Manaar from Ceylon to Southern India, where 
much worth seeing not to be found elsewhere will be seen. 
The plain sloping south and eastward from the Deccan 
Mountains is better watered than most parts of India, 
while the climate well adapts it to the garden of the world. In 
coming from Ceylon the landing place is Tuticorin, which ambi¬ 
tiously assumes to be the Liverpool of the east. It is a typical 
South Indian city of the smaller class, but serves as a fitting 
introduction to the more considerable cities that lie beyond. We 
take the train in the gray of the early morning to Madura, a city 
lying north of Tuticoria some ninety miles, one of the oldest 
capitals in Southern India. Here is the great architectural 
wonder which we have come so far to see, the temple of 
Minakshi, the largest (in some respects the most remarkable) 
temple in India. It covers eighteen acres of ground, is built on 
massive arches springing from huge granite pillars, and entered 
from four principal portals toward the cardinal points, sur¬ 
mounted by pagodas two hundred feet high. A bathing tank 
in one part of the interior is known as the Lake of the Golden 
Lotus, and bathing in its somewhat filthy-looking waters is said 
to cleanse the devotee of all iniquity. Following the line of 
railroad from Madura we pass Trichinopoli, which is widely 
known for its silver ornaments, brooches, belts, bracelets and 
the like, which are manufactured in the humble homes, the 


Ancient Buddhist 
Tope, at Sarnath, 
Benares, India 



% 


mud cabins that line the narrow, dark, and crooked streets of 
the silver quarter. 

The next town of importance is Tarijore, where may be seen 
the ancient car of Juggernaut, the massive vehicle that once 
bore the idol about the city on feast days and beneath whose 
ponderous wheels the Hindoo fanatic deemed it a blessed privi¬ 
lege to die. 

Another day or two on the cars toward the north and 


Madras is reached, the capital of Southern India, and a city 
having an extensive commerce. Instead of coming by rail 
from Tuticoria after crossing from Ceylon, the 
traveler might have taken steamer 
and made Madras his first stopping 
point in India, extending his knowl¬ 
edge of South India by visiting Bang¬ 
alore and Hyderabad, the latter 
being the capital of the dominions 
of Nizam, the most considerable 
prince now left in India. 

Golconda, once famous for its 
gems, the old capital and burial 
place of the early kings, is but seven 
miles from Hyderabad. Its rugged hills are as picturesque as 
they ever were, but its peculiar wealth is gone. Again at 
Madras we embark upon the sea for Calcutta, a hundred miles 
up from the coast, on the Hooghly River, which is one of the 
many channels cut by the Ganges, the sacred river, through its 
delta on its way to the sea. 

We have arrived at this capital of the Indian empire at the 
right season of the year to enjoy to the full the wonders now 
about to be revealed to us. The Ganges River is filled with 
vessels of all nations, whose innumerable masts bear the ensign 
of their respective countries. Calcutta, it will be found, has 





Benares, Fronting the 
Ganges, India 






The Mahat, from the 
Gardens, Jeypore, 
Bombay, India, 


many European characteristics, very delightful to 
contemplate when one is so far away from home. 
New York has its Central Park, Washington has its magnificent 
Pennsylvania Avenue, London its Rotten Row, Philadelphia its 
Broad Street, Paris its boulevards, but Calcutta has its beautiful 
maiden or public esplanade, where the representatives of Her 
Majesty’s Imperial Government and European merchants vie 
with the imposing and gorgeous costumes and equipages of the 
native Indian princes and high-caste Brahmins. Hindoo 
temples hold out a tempting invitation to the tourist, Kali Ghant 
being the first which claims our attention. We are now in a 
country of railroads and it becomes easy traveling — the towns 
we have on our itinerary of ready access. A side trip up to the 
hill station, Darjeeling, 7,500 feet up in the clouds, must not be 
omitted, for the Darjeeling & Himalaya Railway is a most won¬ 
derful piece of engineering skill, the mode of reversing the train 
being very ingenious. Darjeeling presents a marvelous pano¬ 
ramic view of the Himalayas from Gaurisankar, seen in the hazy 
distance, to the majestic Donkiah and Chamalari peaks. In the 
center rise the twin crests of Kinchinjugua, whose brows are 
wreathed in perpetual snow, the sublimity of the view making 
us realize how varied, how wonderful, are God’s works. 

Returning to Calcutta, the train is again boarded, this time 
from Howrah, a suburb lying across the river from the city. 
Traveling north and west across plains and hills, and along the 
fertile, densely populated valley of the Ganges, innumerable 
towns and villages are passed through, affording a journey of 
constant and varied interest, until at length Benares is reached, 
some 500 miles from Calcutta. 

Benares, the birthplace of Buddha, center of that faith dear 
to so many million people! What Mecca is to the Mussul¬ 
mans, what Bethlehem was and is to Christendom, Benares 
is to the five hundred millions of that old faith — the faith 







that bows to Buddha. Here are the holy ghats 
that lead down to the Ganges; here the sacred 
footprints of the sainted Buddha, and even those of Vishnu; 
here are the holy doves and the holy pepul tree; here the sacred c P i 
cattle and the temple of the sacred monkeys — these and many 
other precious things; precious at least to more of the children 
of the Great Father of us all than own to any other form of wor¬ 
ship— more than to all other forms. Here is the copious, over¬ 
flowing Ganges, whose waters touch but to purify and wash 
away all taint of sin — river most broad and deep and wonder¬ 
ful ! Thousands of millions have washed their bodies in this 
wondrous stream and come up from it satisfied and happy. 
Millions of millions of bodies burned in fire have had their 
ashes strewn upon its placid wave in hope of rest eternal; and 
still the stream gathers its force and its devotees gather by its 
banks, and may do so in all the ages yet to come. A quaint old 
city is Benares, full of interesting things. Across the Ganges 
here a noble railroad bridge has just been completed. The 
native streets and shops show thrift and skill, while in the work 
of brass there is nothing like the rich Benares goods in any 
clime or country. 

The temples and shrines in Benares number over two thou¬ 
sand. At Sarnath, a short drive out, are some interesting ruins 
and piles of brick and stonework of great size. This place is 
said to have been the birthplace of Buddhism. Morning is the 
best time to take a boat on the river and see the celebrated 
Bathing Ghats on the Ganges. Thousands of pilgrims of both 
sexes, and of all ages, from all parts of India, here immerse 
themselves in the waters of the Sacred River. A fine view of 
the fagade of numerous palaces of native grandees is obtained 
from the river. There are two very handsome minarets, one 
of which should be ascended, and from the top a magnificent 
view of Benares and the surrounding neighborhood is obtained. 



Great Banyan Tree, 
Calcutta, India. 


In the city, the many richly decorated temples should occupy 
nearly a whole day. There are manufactories of gold-embroid¬ 
ered cloth, brass work, ornamental figures, utensils, etc., and 
wooden toys; these can be seen while passing through the 
bazaars. The great Durga Temple will be visited. It is 
known to Europeans as the “Monkey Temple” because of the 
hundreds of monkeys that here make their abode. These ani¬ 
mals expect all who visit the temple to give them food, and are 
at times unpleasantly clamorous until they obtain it. On the 
way is situated the palace of the Maharajah of Vizianagram, 
which, by courtesy, is generally free for European visitors to 
walk through. Carriages will be provided; also boats for 
viewing the ghats. 

Leaving Benares, we are off to Lucknow by the fastest 
evening train, India becoming more and more 
to us a fascination. Lucknow and Cawn- 
pore! How those names thrill us! for in 
that never-to-be-forgotten summer of 1857 
the bulk of the native military turned their 
guns and drew their swords against the 
British troops and residents. At Lucknow 
and Cawnpore were the results most terri¬ 
ble. Older people to-day recall with what 
anxiety they looked for news from these two points that now 
lie before us, where the lives of thousands of men and women 
and children hung by a single hair; how they looked for the 
advance of Havelock and Colin Campbell with their troops of 
succor; how that wail of anguish rent the whole civilized world 
on learning of the acts of savage outrage and of brutal murder 
perpetrated by the followers of Nana Sahib, the human tiger. 
Many hours may be spent in and about these two cities, sor¬ 
rowful hours, reviving thoughts of how those men and women 
suffered during the awful days of the siege, penned in like 




cattle until the Campbells came. In this fair city of Lucknow 
you will read no end of interesting story. Temple and old 
fantastic gates, well-walled harem, and round-domed mosque 
all contribute their share of interest. 

The city of Lucknow is full of places of interest connected 
with the Mutiny. The chief are: The Dilkoosha Palace, built 
in 1800 by Nawab Vizier Sahodut Ally Khan. Sir Henry 
Havelock died here on the 24th of November, 1857 ; the 
Martiniere College, built in 1793 by Gen. Claude Martine who 
came out of India as a private soldier; the Wingfield Park, 
magnificently laid out; the Secundra Bagh, where, during the 
Mutiny, 2,000 mutineers were killed within two hours by the 
93d Foot and the 4th Punjab Rifles, under the command of Sir 
Colin Campbell; the Residency, built in 1800 by Sahodut Ally 
Khan—during the mutiny it contained only 927 Europeans 
and was besieged by the rebels—the shot and shell marks are 
yet to be seen upon the walls; the Fort “ Muchi Bhawan,” built 
during the great famine as a relief work at an enormous cost; 
Hooseinabad, or the Palace of Light, etc. The tourist should 
visit the Residency and other places of interest by carriage. 

At Cawnpore the mighty Ganges is seen for the last time as 
the railway turns west on its way to Agra, which is distant a 
ride of some six hours. Agra the precious paradise! Agra the 
city of Taj Mahal, built in memory of the 
undying love of Emperor Shah Jean, “King 
of the World,” for his favorite wife, Arja- 
mand. Bayard Taylor calls this monu¬ 
ment to a beautiful woman a poem. “ It is 
not only a pure architectural type, but a 
creation which satisfies the imagination, 
because its characteristic is beauty. Did 
you ever build a castle in the air? Here is 
one brought down to earth and fixed for 



Native Bungalow, 
Calcutta. India 



Cashme 

Delhi. 


re Gate, 
India, 


the wonder of ages; yet so light it seems, so airy, and when seen 
from a distance so like a fabric of mist and sunbeams, with its 
great dome soaring up, a silvery bubble about to burst in the 
sun, that even after you have touched it and climbed to its sum¬ 
mit you almost doubt its reality.” A sheik who takes care of 
this epic in marble will tell you it cost seven crores of rupees 
($35, ooo , oo °); that 20,000 men worked on it a score of years, and 
that one and one-third million carts of red rock and marble 
were handled to make this fair display of gates and tombs, 
fountains, and walks. From Agra another run of six hours or 
so toward the north brings one to Delhi. 

Delhi is one of the ancient cities of the world, its history 
dating back at least 1,500 years before Christ, and the portions 
of the great ruined fortress of Indrapaat, four miles from 
modern Delhi, are pointed out as dating back to the days of 
Joshua. Seven ancient and ruined cities, with 
colossal fortresses, marble palaces, stupendous 
walls, and magnificent temples, stretch for twelve 
or fifteen miles over the great plain which lies 
between the ridge and the river Jumna, any one 
of which would be one of the wonders of Europe, 
if situated on that continent. 

The principal places of interest, which should be 
visited by carriage, are the following: The Jumna 
Musjid; the Fort, including the Dewan A’am, the Dewan Rhas, 
the King’s Bath, and Pearl Mosque; the Kalan Musjid, near 
the Turcoman gate of the city; Feroz Shah’s Lat, or Stone 
Pillar, the ruins of the City of Ferozabad, just outside the gate; 
Humayon’s Tomb, Nizamodeen’s Tomb, the Chousut Kumba, 
and the other ruined mosques, etc.; adjacent to the Fort of 
Purana, Shir Shah’s Mosque, the Kootub Minar, the ruins of the 
Junter Munter or Observatory, Sufder-Jung’s Mausoleum, and 
Mausoleum of Sultan Gari. 



Jeypore, the finest native city of India, being the chief 
city of the independent native States known as the Rajputana, 
is the capital of the territory of the Maharajah, and the 
residence of a political agent, whose permission is required to 
visit the ancient capital Ambar, seven miles distant from the 
modern city. It is situated on a small lake, in a valley sur¬ 
rounded with hills. The magnificent palace of Ambar is on the 
slope of the hill rising west from the margin of the lake, the 
temples, houses, and streets being scattered picturesquely 
amongst the many ravines furrowing the hillsides. The 
Zenana, with its four elegant kiosks, rises above this, while the 
gloomy castle crowns the higher parts with its lofty towers and 
many loopholed battlements, and the one tall minaret that 
overtops them all. The modern palace also is very 
interesting with its seven or eight stories, flanked at 
each extremity by a lofty tower surmounted by a 
cupola. This is the present royal residence, and the 
gardens are well stocked with cypresses, palms, and 
flowering shrubs, and laid out with fountains, ter¬ 
races, and alcoves with great taste, the whole being- 
inclosed by a high embattled wall. It stands in the 
center of the city, which covers about two miles in ' 
length, from east to west, by one in breadth, and has a 
surrounding masonry wall, with lofty towers and gatewa 
The audience hall, or Dewan-i-khas, built entirely of pure white 
marble — a material largely employed all over the palace — is 
well worth seeing; also the public gardens, seventy acres in 
extent — perhaps the finest of their kind in India. The other 
objects of interest are the School of Art, the Observatory, the 
Arsenal, and the Hawaii Mahal. This is a magnificent edifice 
in the Saracenic style of architecture. The main street of the 
city is forty yards wide, and where side roads of the same 
breadth intersect it there are market places. Water is laid on 



Avenue of Palms, 
Calcutta, India. 


all the streets, unlike any other native eity. Leave Jeypore, 
via Ajmere, Ahmedabad, and Surat, for Bombay. 

In Bombay there are many things well worth seeing, the 
more distant places being visited by carriage. The principal 
statues are a white marble statue of her Majesty, by Noble, 
near the Post Office, and a bronze equestrian statue of H. R. H. 
the Prince of Wales, on the Esplanade. Amongst the numer¬ 
ous public buildings may be mentioned the Town Hall, with 
library and museum, Her Majesty’s Mint, St. Thomas Cathedral, 
the Sailors’ Home, the Public Works Office, etc., the High 
Court Offices, the Secretariat, the Sassoon Mechanics’ Institute, 
and the University Buildings. The Crawford Markets should 
be visited in the morning. There are arrangements of the best 
possible character here, where food of all descriptions is exposed 
for sale. A ramble through the native bazaars will be time 
not wasted, as here may be seen manufactures of all kinds, and 
the crude native appliances are most interesting. 

A large proportion of the wealthier inhabitants of Bombay 
are Parsees, and on the Malabar Hill is the place where they 
dispose of their dead, called, not without significance, the 
“ Towers of Silence.” The corpses are placed within uncovered 
buildings, for vultures to eat. There is nothing repulsive to 
be seen, and a model of the towers shown by an attendant 
demonstrates how every particle is absorbed, either by these 
birds or by filtration into the earth. 

A splendid view of Bombay is obtained from Malabar Hill, 
the fashionable residential part of the city. A very enjoyable 
evening promenade is along the Esplanade and the Apollo 
Bunder. A military band plays on most evenings, between six 
and eight o’clock, on the Esplanade or at the Apollo Bunder, 
where the elite of Bombay, European and native, resort, and 
from their carriages or promenading, listen to the music and 
’ enjoy the cool air from the sea. A stranger will be particu- 


larly struck with the gay costumes of the rich natives; many 
of them, and especially their children, are dressed in some of 
the brightest colors conceivable. 

The Caves of Elephants are on a beautiful island called by 
the natives Gharapuri, the “ Town ” or “ Hill of Purification,” 
or Garrapuri, the “ City of Excavations.” Froni the custodian 
of the caves may be purchased a small guide book descriptive 
of them, and the wonderful rather than beautiful sculpture they 
contain. Some of the figures have been shamefully mutilated. 



G eat Mosque, Lucknow, India. 







Jebel Serbaal, Arabia. 


F 



OR six days we will have a taste of the ocean, but the 
memories of India will last through all time, even 
though stranger things may be before us than we saw 
in the country of the Ganges, the country of Brahma, 
Vishnu, and Siva. Straight away across the Arabian Ocean do 
we sail for six days, passing the Babelmandeb Straits, between 
the isles of igneous rocks, and enter the long Red Sea, not red 
at all, but “reedy,” as a savant in Egyptian lore tells us it 
should be spelled. We are passing the country of history, the 
country which gave us our numerals, i, 2, 3, 4; the almanac, 
and coffee — the very name is Arabic Ivahwah, corrupted into 
coffee — and the Arabians made books; they made paper out of 
cotton and introduced it into Europe. Arabia gave us arith¬ 
metic, logic, metaphysics; gave us books, and algebra, chemis¬ 
try, and astronomy; and over there, beyond the place where we 
are going to land — over there, beyond the eastern shore of 
this great sea — Caliph A 1 Manum, on the desert Shinar plains, 
more than a thousand years ago, determined the earth’s sphe¬ 
ricity and fixed its circumference at 24,000 miles. 

A day or so is passed at Aden, and then we take passage again 
for a trip through the Gulf of Suez. We are set down in Suez 
in good time, after a very comfortable passage of twelve days 
from Bombay. Suez is not much of a place, but as an antique 
is very interesting. It was founded about the time that 
am was a boy, and was an old Egyptian seaport town 





thousands of years ago. Here Necho’s ships set sail to cir¬ 
cumnavigate Africa. I H rom Suez, too, in very olden time, 
almost before the discovery of Europe, ran the broad canal* 
built by Seti I and Rameses II, that floated ships of Egypt 
to Phoenician ports; that floated ships of Tyre, ships of Solo¬ 
mon. This ancient waterway was rebuilt by He Lesseps twenty 
years ago, and other ships now pass to and fro. None come 
from Tyrian ports, nor Judean Jaffa. Solomon lives but in his 
proverbs. Older than any history, Suez excites mingled feel¬ 
ings, for we are treading upon ground hallowed with the feet 


of greatness in the gone centuries. From here it is but a short 
trip over summer seas to Alexandria. 

The walls that Alexander built at Alexandria 
are dust; his noble temples and gymnasia no 
longer have a place. The harbor is filled up 
with mud and silt where rode Alexander’s 
fleets in those far-off times; and Pharos, too, 
that towering lighthouse of the Orient, that 
nearer touched the clouds than any work of man, 
is gone, and not a vestige left. All the great 
libraries have suffered likewise, many of them suc¬ 
cumbing to Caesar’s troops. To the student of history there is 
no sadder spot than this. You must take a drive to Pompey’s 
Pillar, and visit the bronze statue to Mohammed Ali, and the 



^1 


Suez Canal. Egypt 


Catacombs. Now prepare for a delightful trip, a visit to Cairo, 
for here the west and east do meet and mix sometimes. But 
a few years ago it was a tiring trip from Alexandria to Cairo, 
usually taken on camel-back, and not infrequently attended 
by danger from roving Arabs. To-day steam and iron rails 
have done away with all weariness and risk—the journey is 
accomplished with comfort and expedition. It is a very busy 
place, this grand old Cairo, with its Nile and palms and Pyra¬ 
mids. The Nile and the palms change, the Pyramids are 




Pompey’s Pillar, 
Alexandria, Egypt. 



Changeless, still standing out against the sky a 
mountain miracle. The Sphinx is most preoc¬ 
cupied, never taking his eyes from the outspread 
western map, looking toward the far, far west, 
somehow seeming to anticipate the coming of prince or power 
to give back to Egypt its Pharaohs and its once prosperous 
times, when Antony lived and Cleopatra loved. He knows not 
Mecca, naught of Nazareth, but gazes toward the west, forever 
looking, forever watching. 

The climate of Cairo is most salubrious, the air is wondrous 
refreshing, and invigorating to such an extent that this old city 
is rapidly becoming one of the delightful resorts for western 
people, its great past, its thousand and one interesting places 
being a perfect mine to the student. The Boulak Museum, 
immediately below Cairo, must be visited, the Old Coptic 
Church also inspected, two niches in the wall marking the 
place where the Virgin and the Holy Child rested after their 
flight into Egypt. We are off to Jaffa, sailing via Port Said 
along the coast of Syria. 



Mosque Sultan, Hassau, Egypt. 









BIBLE LANDS. 


Y OU can not always land at Jaffa — the place where 
Noah is alleged to have built his ark — on account of 
the waters of the Mediterranean Sea being nearly 
always rough, but facing the town is a chain of reefs 
about a thousand feet long which forms a sort of breakwater, 
affording some shelter to a little haven accessible to craft draw¬ 
ing from eight to ten feet of water. Our ship anchors about half 
a mile off the town and we reach harbor in small boats, giving 
us an expansive view of this outport of Jerusalem and all South 
Judea from the very dawn of history. Here, according to the 
legend mentioned by Pliny and Josephus, stood the rock to 
which Andromeda was chained. Since the middle of the pres¬ 
ent century the gardens of Jaffa have increased fourfold, and 
last year contained upward of 800,000 orange trees, which 
yielded a crop of 22,000,000 oranges. 

We stand on the Tower of David by the Jaffa gate, just inside 
the walls of the Holy City, and what a panorama is spread out 
before us ! What a world of suggestion in hill and valley, 
fountain, street, and tomb ! We came thither by the lovely 
Sharon vale, among the fields of growing grass and grain; 
among pretty slopes besprinkled with bright flowers, among a 
pastoral people now as in the days when Simon the tanner 
lived and St. Paul preached. And Jerusalem! full of interest; 
no city has been more extolled, none more besieged, none more 
lifted up, none made more desolate; the City of David, the abid- 



ing place of Herod, with Bethlehem just beyond ! One’s blood 
will tingle as he stands upon the places where stood the 
prophets and priests of old; where stood and taught the Sav¬ 
iour of the world. We are within the walls that surround the 
center of the world, but the city of God no more, for the star and 
crescent is over the gate and the turbaned Turk governs, and it 
is only through permission of the Moslem that you are permitted 
to look reverently upon the places now known to every school 
boy and girl, now known wherever the Bible is taught. Days 
may be spent about this historic city with delight, but Jerusa¬ 
lem must be left, Bethlehem must be left, as well as Jehosaphat, 
and we take the road to Nazareth and Galilee, Baalbec and 
Beyrout, to take a ship and sail away. The road leads northward. 
We are on our way through old historic fields, along the 
ancient Roman road over which Vespasian, Titus, Hadrian led 
their troops, along which conquering Alexander came three 
centuries B. C., to take the Judean capital within whose temple, 
so they say, he worshiped, in deference to a dream he once 
had, the true and living God; along which men have come and 
men have gone for many centuries. 



i/ 


Garden of Gethsemane, Jerusalem. 




THROUGH THE DARDANELLES. 


B EYROUT, home of the brave St. George! Had you 
been here 1,600 years ago you would have found the 
most popular law school of the East. Augustus 
founded it. Gladiatorial games were instituted here, 
and here many of the Roman amusements had their genesis. 
The city has a noble site, facing the sea and gradually rising 
from the spacious harbor. From there we sail on to Smyrna, 
passing Cyprus, and many other islands of historic interest, on 
the way. From the sea Smyrna presents a 
pleasant prospect. It has a well-built quay, 
along which run tram-cars, while hotels, stores, 
and places of amusement show the refining 
influences of the West in the Far East. Most 
things here are modern. By rail we go to Ephe¬ 
sus, most glorious of the Asia Minor cities of 1,800 
years ago, and possibly the most perfect ruin of a 
great city you will ever see. Here stood Diana’s 
Temple, one of the seven wonders of the world; now hardly a 
foundation stone is left. And so you might go on through the 
whole list. Many are the famous places passed in the ship, 
many of the great ones of earth recalled as we float by their 
abiding places along this Mediterranean shore. 

As one approaches from the Sea of Marmora by the Dar¬ 
danelles, old Constantinople, or Stamboul, is on the left, 
divided from Galata-Pera by a sickle-shaped arm of the harbor, 



The City and the Golden 
Horn, Constantinople, 


which is known as the Golden Horn. On the heights which rise 
from the Golden Horn to the north or left is Galata-Pera, in 
which are the residences of the foreign embassies and other 
strangers, and nearer the banks of the Golden Horn are the 
commercial houses; opposite the mouth of the arm of that 
harbor on the Asiatic shore is Scutari, also a part of the great 
city. 

The capital and its environs is one municipality, or strictly 
speaking, a vilayet, an administrative district of the first class. 

The vilayet is divided into ten municipal circles, and these 
are subdivided into districts. The population is reckoned at 
873>5f>5> °f which the proportions are relatively as follows: 
Moslems, Greeks, Armenians, other foreigners, Jews, native 
Roman Catholics, Bulgarians, native Protestants. 

The first settlement here was made by the Greeks of Megara, 
658 B. C. They established themselves on the extremity of the 
peninsula of Stamboul, now known as Seraglio Point, at the 
end of the promontory nearest to the junction of the Golden 
Horn and the Bosporus. They called their new home Byzan¬ 
tium; the ancient Chalcedon had already been established on 
the opposite Asiatic shore by the Thracians. As Byzantium 
grew and prospered it became an object of contention among 
the warring powers, and was captured by the Persians, who, 
however, were expelled after the downfall of Xerxes, and it 
was incorporated in the Athenian confederacy, to which it 
belonged until after the overthrow of that league. The 
Byzantines joined the second Athenian confederacy, and it was 
made a fiee city by the Romans as a reward for aid granted in 
the wars of Rome; in A. D. 330 it was made the capital of the 
new Roman Empire by Constantine, who gave his name to the 
metiopolis of the new Christian Empire. The city was then 
extended to twice its former size, and was gradually sur¬ 
rounded by walls stretching from the Sea of Marmora, at the 


point now known as the Seven Towers, to the Golden Horn on 
the north; thence along - the Golden Horn, or harbor, to the 
extremity of the peninsula, or Seraglio Point, and back to the 
place of beginning. These walls remain, and of the other 
works at that time constructed mention may be made of the 
Hippodrome, the numerous cisterns, and the aqueducts, some 
of which were only lately discovered. 

Viewed from the water, Constantinople is a vision of wonder¬ 
ful beauty and splendor. The heights of Stamboul, on the 
left, are crowned with the airy domes and minarets of St. 
Sophia, and the extremity of Seraglio Point is accentuated by 
groves of cypresses, within which gleam the white walls of 
palaces. The Golden Horn is crowded with shipping from 
every port, and the districts of Pera and Galata, on the north 
side, are dominated by a massive castle, the Genoeso Tower, 
beyond which rise the handsome buildings of the foreign 
embassies. 

The tide of the Bosporus mirrors in its bosom innumerable 
glittering palaces, and the dim distance fades into a sapphire 
hue toward the entrance to the Euxine, where steep and storied 
banks, crowned with lofty castles and historic edifices, lead the 
eye to the far-off east. On landing much of the illusion dis¬ 
appears. The streets of Constantinople are mostlv narrow; 
some of them are mere alleys and lanes, and all of them are 
dirty and ill paved; it would appear as if nothing was ever 
repaired in Constantinople. The main thoroughfares of the 
city are tolerably well kept, but the visitor should be reminded 
that Constantinople was not built for wheel transportation. 
The narrowness and tortuousness of the streets is accounted 
for by the fact that men, horses, and donkeys have always been 
the burden carriers and the means of transportation. Only in 
modern times have drays, carriages, and other wheeled vehicles 
been introduced into common use. 



Great Mosque of 
St. Sophia, 
Constantinople. 


The author of “ Eothen ” says: “Nowhere else does the sea 
come so close home to a city as to the Mohammedan capital. 
There are no pebbly shores, no sand-bars, no slimy river beds, 
no black canals, no locks nor docks to divide the very heart of 
the place from the deep waters. It being in the noisiest mart 
of Stamboul, you would stroll to the quiet of the way; amid 
those cypresses opposite you will cross the fathomless 
Bosporus. If you would go from your hotel to the 
bazaars you must pass by the bright blue pathway 
of the Golden Horn that can carry a thousand sail of 
the line. You are accustomed to the gondolas that 
glide among the palaces of St. Mark, but here at 
Stamboul it is a hundred-and-twenty-gun ship that 
meets you in the streets. Venice strains out from the steadfast 
land, and in old times would send forth the chief of the state 
to woo and wed the reluctant sea; but the stormy bride of the 
Doge is the bowing slave of the Sultan. She comes to his feet 
with the treasures of the world. She bears him from palace 
to palace; by some unveiling witchcraft she entices the breeze 
to follow her and fan the pale cheek of the land; she lifts his 
armed navies to the very gates of the garden; she watches the 
walls of his serai; she stifles the intrigues of his ministers; 
she quiets the scandals of his court; she extinguishes his 
rivals, and hushes his naughty wives all one by one, so vast 
are the wonders of the deep.” 

Among the objects to be seen are the Seraglio built by 
Mohammed II, occupied by the wives of the present Sultan’s 
late father, the Sultan residing in his new palace on the 
Bosporus, opposite Scutari; the Mosque of St. Sophia; the 
Mosque of Suleiman, the Magnificent; the Hippodrome, cne of 
the most celebrated squares both of ancient and modern Con¬ 
stantinople. On visiting the Mosque of St. Sophia, and other 
places of a similar description, the visitor must take off his 



outer hoots and walk in slippers, which he ought to bring with 
him, as no Turkish gentleman or decent person enters any 
house with dirty boots. St. Sophia, or Aya Sofiyah, is near the 
principal gate of the Seraglio, and was a cathedral dedicated 
A. I). 360 to Agia Sophia “ Holy Wisdom ” by Constantins II. 
It is an immense and somewhat gloomy marble basilica, 270 
feet by 245 feet. At the Ramadan it is illuminated with globes 
of crystal and lamps of colored glass. A block of red marble 
is called Christs Cradle. From the gallery T you observe the 

congregation of believers at prayers, with their faces toward 
Mecca. 

One of the principal objects of antiquity in Constantinople 
is the Burnt Pillar in Adrianople Street, the only real street 
in the city. The bazaars are similar to those of Damascus and 
Cairo, only much more extensive. Ten days is the least pos¬ 
sible time you can devote to seeing the city and suburbs in a 
proper manner. 




The Parthenon, Athens. 


H AVING touched the Black Sea as with a wand, we 
return our steps through the Dardanelles, or Helles¬ 
pont. We are again among the Grecian Isles, so 
beautifully described by Byron. 

Athens is almost completely land-locked, and the harbor 
would be exceedingly interesting if it were not for the alluring 
magic of the Athenian capital, which is so near that one sees 
the west pediment of the Parthenon long before he lands. On 
the left, or to the westward, as the ship approaches the entrance 
of the seaport, one sees the Bay of Salamis, and the strait 
through which Themistocles drove the Persian fleet, while 
Atistides pursued the army on the land. 

The port of Piraeus enjoys considerable commercial impor¬ 
tance, and has a population of about 35,000. There is little 
here to attract the attention of the tourist, and as soon as the 
perfunctory examination of baggage is over, one at once de¬ 
parts for the City of the Violet Crown. The distance, five miles, 
is traversed by railway, trains running every half hour, fare, 1 x /z 
franc. Most persons, however, prefer to drive to the city, in 
pleasant weather. The road, which lies along the line of the 
Long Walls destroyed during the ancient wars, is uniformly 
good, and, except in bad weather, affords a series of beautiful 
views of Athens and its approaches. A special and explicit 
bargain should be made with the driver; 5 francs each person, 
one way, is the average fare to Athens by carriage, but a party 






ma> make better terms than this. As a rule, carriage-drivers 

are trustworthy, when once a bargain has been made with 
them. 

The general aspect of the city of modern Athens is that of a 
white glitteiing city, inclosed betw r een the ranges of hills that 
are marked by the Acropolis and Lycabettus on the south 
and east, and sloping northward to the Attic plain bounded by 
groves of olive trees. The streets are broad and clean, and the 
city has all the appearance of any of those of Southern Italy, 
except that it is rather cleaner. The center of its life may be 
found at the Place de la Constitution, at the higher southern 
end of the city. Here is the King’s Palace, a huge white bar¬ 
rack of limestone, many windowed and altogether unattractive, 
externally. Behind the palace is a fine garden, to which 
entrance is granted under certain restrictions. In front of the 
palace is a barren, gravelly plaza, or open square, and below 
this is a public park, where a military band plays every Tues¬ 
day, Thursday, and Sunday afternoons. Here is also the cen¬ 
ter of hotel life, and the square is bounded in every direction 
by the best establishments of their kind, with ticket offices, 
tourists’ agencies, and other offices that cater to the needs of 
the traveler. The shops are uniformly good, and strangers 
may buy here, at reasonable prices, such articles as are needed 
for use and comfort. 

There are no curios worth mentioning, although manufac¬ 
tures of silk, embroidery, photographs, and, possibly, a few^ 
antiquities will serve as souvenirs of Athens. Purchasers of 
antiquities are warned that spurious articles of this sort are on 
the market. The genuine objects of art are rare, and large 
prices are usually demanded for them. In any case, the buyer 
should never give more than one-half the price asked by the 
venders. At the hotels are sold small cans of the honey of 
Hymettus. 


West of the Acropolis, and between the Hill of the Nymphs 
and Acropolis, is Mars’ Hill, a steep rock, where the court sat, 
of which Dionysius was a member. Here St. Paul preached 
his famous sermon. Pnyx is the hill behind the Areopagus, 
where the Athenians held their public meetings. On the 
Museum Hills are ruined walls, cisterns, etc., and the well-pre¬ 
served Tomb of Philopappos, with the so-called Prison of Soc¬ 
rates. Beyond the walls was the Academy, or the school of the 
followers of Plato, in a garden under Colonos. 

Leaving Athens our route contemplates Missolonghi by 
Elousis, Megara, Corinth, Megaspelion, Helice, Vostizza, and 
Patras. 



View of the Acropolis, Athens. 






ITALY 


m 

Vatican 


F 


ROM Patras we take steamer to Brindisi, bringing bul 
seventeen days away Lake Michigan, if we so desired 
to take a short cut to Liverpool. But we are girdling 
the globe, and Brindisi, which is situated in the heel 
of the cavalry boot which Italy resembles, invites inspection 
Here may be seen one or two of the tumble-down columns of 
tie old Roman Appian Way, an ancient, very ancient church 
and the house wherein Virgil gave up his life. Again we are en 
route. This time overland, across Italy by rail 'to Naples the 
Newport of Italy. Naples! the views are really grand ' Off 
up there is Vesuvius, smoking, troubled in body.' Off there is 
Capri, gem of the sea, home of Tiberias. Over beyond is Sor¬ 
rento, garden spot of orange groves and olive trees, a perpetual 
summer. Across this beauteous bay is lovely Baiac, bluffed 
round about with verdured slopes once fringed with Roman 
palaces. Look where you may, across the Ischia, brave Gari¬ 
baldi’s home, or around to Castellamare, and you find a sea of 
beauty everywhere, the waters smooth and pure and clear, of 
variant shades, beneath a sky of pearly tinted haze; its vistas 
dreamy, deep, enchanting - . 

Pompeii, the desolate, is seen en tour, and one’s 
mind can not help but people again these well- ... 
paved streets with those who trod them before | 
the days when the lava came and settled over 
the fair city, blotting it out forever. The grim 








Colosseum, Rome. 


monster abov r e shows no signs of regret at the devastation he 
has wrought, but continues puffing his pipe, occasionally shoot¬ 
ing forth great glares of light to warn those who dwell along 
his sides that he still lives if others are extinct. 

Rome! the Eternal City, we have reached in splendid season, 
going either by boat or rail from Naples. We saw the end of 
the Appian Bay at Brindisi; we see its beginning here. Sitting 
by the grand old Serverus Arch, you can see the ruined shrines 
of other days. Here is the old-time pavement of the Via 
Sacna; the very stones are at your feet that many a Caesar trod 
upon. Round here strode Pompey, called the 
Great. The Forum! You have been a school¬ 
boy and spoken your piece upon the stage. 
Know you the Forum as it was in the time of 
Caesar, Brutus, and Cicero? How small and 
».weak you feel and how benumbed as you go 
"over the days of Cataline, of Antony; and here 
jtcame Flavia, widow of his victim, Claudius, and 
^ plucked out that silvery tongue which once had 
wayed the Senate and heart of Rome, and 
. pierced it with her hairpin, spat in his face, and 
went her way. St. Peter’s is beyond description, 
and you thank heaven that you have been permitted to see this 
masterpiece of church architecture. “A San Peatro,” it will be 
with you always. The Pantheon you will like, it is so full of 
interest, so grand, so calm, so self-contained; none so much the 
temple of heaven as this, whose only window opens to the 
stars and upper skies. Then on northward by rail to Florence 
and Venice, to see romanticism at its highest point! The 
streets of Florence are quaintly picturesque, the winding Arno 
having a fascination quite apart from its place in art and story. 
City of Savonarola, where this saintly man was sacrificed — a 
burnt offering to the bigotry of former times. The Uffizi and 





Pitti galleries are endless almost in their 
wealth of old masters. We touch at Venice 
en passant, and peep into Pisa on our way to 
Turin. Venice opens up a world of romance, and we enjoy to 
the full its “dear delights.” Pisa has a tover famous in its 
lack of rectitude, and it has not a rival in the world. But we 
must not tarry. We rush away to see old Genoa, the home of 
Columbus, with its churches, palaces, and the grandest burying- 
ground in all the world. 

The journey from Genoa to Turin is through a well popu¬ 
lated country. This latter city, once the capital of the king¬ 
dom of Italy, is rich in historical study. Situated on an exten¬ 
sive plain of the Po, with the snowy Alps on the west, 
and on the east a range of hills upon which stands the Capu¬ 
chin Monastery, the picture presented is one calculated to draw 
forth exclamations of delight from the traveler. We have 
become used to travel by this time, and while reluctantly leav¬ 
ing the home of the Popes, the country of Shakespeare’s heroes 
and heroines, of the beautiful Italian lakes, we know there lies 
beyond quite as fair a prospect, and in a pleasant frame of mind 
Paris is reached. 



St Peters, and Castle 
St Angelo, from th 
Tiber, Rome. 







THE FRENCH CAPITAL. 






The Louvre from Acros; 
the River, Paris. 



RADUALLY we have left the Old World behind us; 
left the strange people, with their still stranger 
modes of life and beliefs, “hoary with time,” and 
now once more we are in a country where modern 
civilization obtains. 

Paris, a city without a day or night, is the only city in the 
world which the visitor from the outside positively refuses to 
take seriously. Visitors who may have come to the gay capi¬ 
tal for serious study somehow or other soon take on the local 
color of the place, and once acclimated, so many unexpected 
and so many new capacities for enjoyment and adventure are 
brought to light that they give themselves over to all sorts of 
mild excesses simply because “it is in the air.” And yet, Paris 
is not without its serious side, its studious side, for after doing 
the boulevard and the cafe chantants, the grand opera, the 
slums, for “slumming” is permissible, you have the Louvre, 
the Luxembourg, Notre Dame, a hundred things to interest 
and instruct, a visit to each one being worthy of continued 
remembrance. 

At the time of the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, the 
Parisii were a tribe settled on the banks of the Sequana or 
Seine, and their chief town was Lutetia, situated on the present 
island of La Cite. 

The first event in the town’s history worthy of mention was 
the introduction of Christianity by St. Denis, who according to 








tradition, suffered martyrdom on Montmartre about the year 
250. Constantius Chlorus is said to have founded the Palais 
des Thermes between 292 and 30. Julian resided at Lutetia in 
360. The name of the town was then changed to Parisii, and 
the political franchise bestowed upon it. In the vicinity of 
Paris, Gratian was defeated and slain by Maximus in 383. 

Paris underwent immense improvements during the second 
empire. Dense masses of houses and numbers of tortuous 
streets were replaced by broad boulevards, spacious squares, 
and palatial edifices. Public works of vast magnitude were 
undertaken and those begun in former reigns successfully com¬ 
pleted. The Bois de Boulogne and the Buttes-Chaumont, 
which are of interest to all visitors, were for the first time laid 
out as public parks; several other promenades and pleasure- 
grounds were either brought into existence or greatly embel¬ 
lished; and, what is of incalculable importance, the city was 
thoroughly well drained, lighted, paved, and supplied with 
water. For several years after the war many of the public 
works were necessarily suspended, but the municipal authori¬ 
ties have done their utmost to remove all traces of the Com¬ 
munist outrages. 

Paris has long enjoyed the reputation of being the most 
cosmopolitan city in Europe, where the artist, the scholar, the 
merchant, and the votary of pleasure alike find the most 
abundant scope for their pursuits. Nor does this boast apply to 
modern times only; for there have been periods when it was 
more generally admitted to be justifiable 
than at the present day. An idea of the 
importance of Paris so early as the twelfth 
century is afforded by the mediaeval poems 
which treat of the traditional twelve “ Mas¬ 
ters of Paris,” who seem to have somewhat 
resembled the Seven Wise Men of Greece. 



Place Bastile and Column of July, Pjns 


For its cosmopolitan character, however, the city is chiefly 
indebted to its University, to which students of all nationalities 
flocked in order to be initiated into the mysteries of the scholas¬ 
ticism which was taught here by its most accomplished pro¬ 
fessors. At the same time industrial and commercial pursuits 
made rapid strides under the fostering care of the monarchs and 
owing to the favorable situation of the city. The great annual 
fair which took place in the extensive plain between Paris and 
St. Denis (Foire du Landit) and the famous Commercial Code 
drawn up by Etienne Boileau in 1258 afford additional proof of 
the early commercial importance of Paris, in consequence of 
which the population increased rapidly, and an extension of the 
municipal boundaries was repeatedly rendered necessary. The 
building enterprise of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, 
though but few traces of it now remain, also bears testimony 
to the energy of the citizens of that period. During the some¬ 
what inglorious period of the restoration, the city enjoyed a 
golden era of prosperity, and the inhabitants reaped the benefits 
of the Revolution and the Napoleonic laurels without partici¬ 
pating in the terrible sacrifices through which they had been 
attained. Persons of the more enlightened classes began to 
aspire to the higher ideals of liberty, whereby their energy and 
enthusiasm were stimulated, and the long lost blessings of peace 
now seemed to them doubly desirable. It was at this time 
that liberal politicians achieved their greatest triumph, that 
French literature and art used their utmost endeavors to resume 
their world-wide sway, and that French society exhibited itself 
in its most refined and amiable aspect. At this period Ben¬ 
jamin Constant and Royer-Collard exercised very great influ¬ 
ence on public opinion. Thiers and Mignet, Victor Hugo and 
Lamartine began their respective careers. The romantic school 
attained high importance and Paris became the recognized 
headquarters of oriental studies and a number of other impor- 
ant sciences. 





The siege of Paris in i8yo-’7 i ranks among 
the most remarkable oceurrences in the 
annals of modern warfare, and the tourist 
should not fail to visit the principal points 
in and around Paris where the conflict raged 
most fiercely. 

There is Villeneuve-St. Georges, about ten miles from Parf 5 ?* , d 
where a pontoon bridge was thrown across the Seine by the p <* ns 
advance guard of the German Crown Prince, September 17, 

1870; Versailles, where the German headquarters were estab¬ 
lished; where Jules Farre came to negotiate an armistice, which 
was arranged on January 28, 1871, and where the preliminaries 
of peace were concluded on February 24, 1871, and signed on 
February 28, 1871; Villejuip, to the south of Paris; Clamart, 
Malmaison, Busanval, and Le Bourget, where ineffectual 
attempts were made to break the German lines. It was dur¬ 
ing the sortie toward Busanval that St. Cloud was set on fire 
by a shell from Mont Valerian. 

Paris is not only the political metropolis of France, but also 
the center of the artistic, scientific, commercial, and- industrial 
life of the nation. Almost every branch of French industry is 
represented here, from the fine-art handicrafts to the construc¬ 
tion of powerful machinery; but Paris is specially known for 
its “articles de luxe ” of all kinds. 

The entrance to Venice by the Grand Canal is famous among 
the great sights of the world. If one entered Paris by the 
Seine and landed at the Hotel de Ville, the impression received 
would perhaps be as striking as that produced by the antique 
palaces of the city of gondolas, and certainly more various. 

And Paris is not without history! Successively Gaulish, 

Roman, Carlovingian, feudal, monarchical, and revolution¬ 
ary, this great city, which Emperor Julian called “my dear 
town of Lutetia,” explaining, “for that is the name which 



the Gauls gave to the town of the Parisians,” has ascended 
from the darkness to light, from unconsciousness to con¬ 
sciousness, from servitude to liberty, from despotism to de¬ 
mocracy. 

“ Rome has more majesty,” wrote Victor Hugo, “ Treves has 
more antiquity, Venice has more beauty, Naples has more 
grace, London has more wealth. What, then, has Paris ? The 
Revolution. 

“ Paris is the first town on which, at a given day, the history 
of the world turned. 

“Palermo has Etna, Paris has thought; Constantinople is 
nearer to the sun, Paris is nearer to civilization; Athens built 
the Parthenon, but Paris demolished the Bastile.” 

The following are a few of the many places of interest the 
traveler should see : 

Museums. —The Louvre, every day except Monday, io a. m. 
to 4 p. m.; Luxemburg, Sundays, 2 to 4 p. m.; other days except 
Monday on production of passport, 11 a. m. to 4 p. m.; Artillery 
Museum of the Invalides, Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday, 12 
noon to 3 p. m.; Medailles (National Library), Tuesday, 11 a. m. 
to 3 p. m.; Museum of the Fardin des Plantes, Tuesday, Thurs¬ 
day, and Saturday by ticket. 

Churches.— La Madeleine, Notre Dame, St. Augustin, St. 
Eustache, St. Severin. 

Public Buildings.— Tomb of Napoleon, Monday, Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Friday, 12 noon to 3 p. m.; Hotel Dieu (Notre 
Dame), Thursday and Sunday; Tour St. Facques, daily; Porte 
St. Denis; Porte St. Martin; Pantheon, daily; Institut de 
France, daily except Sundays ; Imprimerie Nationale, by order 
of the director; National Library, daily except Sundays; 
National Archives, daily except Sunday, 11 to 3 ; Bourse, daily 
except Sunday; Gobelins, Wednesday and Saturday during 
summer; College de France, daily; Conservatoire des Arts, 
free on Sunday and Thursday, other days 1 franc. 


The principal streets and thoroughfares in Paris are the 
Champs Elysee, leading from the Tuilleries Gardens to the Arc 
de Triomphe; Bois de Boulogne, a public park laid out with 
great skill; Champ de Mars, facing the Military School. The 
principal boulevards are the Capucins, Des Italiens, Mont¬ 
martre, Poissonier, St. Denis, St. Martin, du Prince Regent, 
Temple, Sebastopol, and Strausbourg. The Rue de Rivoli and 
the Rue St. Honore are the main thoroughfares of the center 
of the city. 

The principal places of interest of the suburbs of Paris are: 
St. Cloud (five miles), reached by tram, railway, or steamer; 
St. Denis, where the celebrated Abbey Church of St. Denis is 
situated; Versailles (fifteen miles), here is the magnificent 
palace erected by Louis XIV; Fontainebleau (forest and park), 
two hours by rail, sixteen trains a day. 

Places of Amusements. — The Grand Opera House, on the 
Place de L’Opera, near the junction of the Boulevards Capucins 
and Italiens; the Opera Comique is on the Place Boildeaur 
Boulevard des Italiens. The Theatre des Italiens is located on 
the Place Ventadour, off the Boulevard des Italiens. The The¬ 
atre Lyrique is at the bottom of the Boulevard Sebastopol, near 
the north bank of the Seine. The Theatre Francais is on Rue 
Richelieu, corner of the Palais Royal. 

General Post Office, Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau. Chief 
branches, Place de la Madeleine, Place de la Bourse, Rue 
Amsterdam (above the entrance to St. Lazare Station), Rue 
Taitbout (angle of Rue de Provence). Telegraph offices, 12 
Place de la Bourse, 103 Rue de Grenelle St. Germain — always 
open; Rue Rivoli, No. 17 — till 9 p. m.; Avenue des Champs 
Elysees, No. 33 — till midnight. British Consulate, Rue du 
Faubourg St. Honore. 

Days may be spent in this gay French capital most profit¬ 
ably, and then, having tired of the sights and sounds dear to 


every Parisian, one may project short visits to its environs 
— Versailles, where are located many of the building’s which 
figure so markedly in French history; the Musee Historique, 
founded by Louis Philippe, and the Grand Trianon, a hand¬ 
some villa of one story in the form of a horseshoe, erected 
by Louis XIV for Madame de Maintenon, while the Petit 
Trianon was erected by Louis XV, and was a favorite resort 
of Marie Antoinette. Rambouillet may also be taken in, as 
well as St. Cloud, Sevres, Mendon, and Fontainebleau. 

From Calais we go by boat to Dover, crossing the English 
Channel, and after a somewhat tempestuous voyage, for the 
channel is usually rough, setting foot on England’s shores, 
once more with a people who speak the language we speak 
and whose blood intermixes with ours. 



C- 3 btf .1 / i f» u ti c 





MERRY ENGLAND. 

>s of Parliament, 

Thames, London. 

W ILLIAM WINTER, poet, litterateur, scholar, says 
of the motherland : “ It is not strange that Eng¬ 

lishmen should be, as certainly they are, passion¬ 
ate lovers of their country ; for their country is 
almost beyond parallel, peaceful, gentle, beautiful * * * * 
Heie ai e finished towns, rural regions thoroughly cultivated 
and exquisitely adorned ; ancient architecture crumbling in 
slow decay; and a soil so rich and pure that even in its idlest 
mood it lights itself up with flowers, just as the face of a sleep¬ 
ing child lights itself up with smiles.” 

Of London, what could be said that would comprehend its 
many places of rare interest within the scope of this “ girdle 
book ” ? One is perplexed to know where to begin, for there is 
so much to be seen in the world’s great metropolis. 

The most populous city in the world can not fail to have had 
an eventful history in all that concerns race, creed, institu¬ 
tions, culture, and general progress. At what period the 
Britons, one branch of the Celtic race, settled on this spot 
there is no authentic evidence to show. 

London, in the days of the Britons, was probably a little 
more than a collection of huts, on a dry spot in the midst of a 
marsh, or in a cleared space in the midst of a wood, and encom¬ 
passed by an artificial earthwork and ditch. 

After the settlement of the Romans in Britain, quite early in 
the Christian era, London rapidly grew in importance. In the 









Old Temple Bar, 
London. 


time of the Emperor Nero (62 A. D.) the city had become a 
resort of merchants from various countries, and the center of a 
considerable maritime commerce, the river Thames affording 
ready access for shipping. 

London became the capital of one of the Anglo-Saxon king¬ 
doms, and continued to increase in size and importance. The 
sites of two of modern London’s most prominent buildings — 
Westminster Abbey and St. Paul’s Cathedral — were occupied 
as early as the beginning of the seventh century by the modest 
originals of these two stately churches. Bede, at the beginning 
of the eighth century, speaks of London as a great market 
frequented by foreign traders, and we find it paying one-fifth 
of a contribution exacted by Canute from the entire kingdom. 

The thirteenth and fourteenth centuries are marked 
in the annals of London by several lamentable fires, 
famines, and pestilences, in which many thousands of 
its inhabitants perished. The year 1381 witnessed the 
rebellion of Wat Tyler, who was slain by Lord Mayor 
Walworth at Smithfield. In this outbreak, and still 
more in that of Jack Cade (1450), London suffered 
severely, through the burning and pillaging of its 
houses. 

In the civil wars, London, which had been most ex¬ 
posed to the exactions of the Star Chamber, naturally sided 
with the Roundheads. It witnessed Charles I beheaded at the 
Palace of Whitehall in 1649, and Oliver Cromwell proclaimed 
Lord Protector of England in 1653, and in 1660 it saw Charles 
II placed on the throne by the “ Restoration.” 

It was not, however, till the reign of Queen Anne (1702- 
1714) that London began to put on anything like its present 
appearance. In 1703 it was visited by a fearful storm, by 
which houses were overthrown, the ships on the river driven 
on shore, churches unroofed, property to the value of at least 














^2,000,000 destroyed, and the lives of several hundreds of per¬ 
sons sacrificed. The winter of 1739-1740 is memorable for the 
Great Frost, lasting from Christmas to St. Valentine’s Day, 
during which a fair was held on the frozen bosom of the 
Thames. Great injuries were inflicted on the city by the 
Gordon No-Popery Riots of 1780. The prisons were destroyed, 
the prisoners released, and mansions were burned or pillaged, 


thirty-six conflagrations having been counted at one time in 
different quarters; and the rioters were not subdued till 
hundreds of them had paid the penalty of their misdeeds with 
their lives. 

To see and properly appreciate London, in an architectural 
point of view, the traveler should devote one or two days 
to viewing its exterior. There are various ways of doing 
this, depending on the taste and circumstances of the 
tourist. If he be alone, and of economical habits, let 
him take the different lines of omnibuses which travel 
over the routes we are about to describe. Secure a 
seat near the driver, who will, especially if his memory 
be refreshed with a small fee, point out the different 
objects of interest; or take a hansom by the hour, with an 
intelligent valet de place; or, if he be accompanied by ladies, 
take a seat with the driver in an open carriage, following the 
different omnibus routes. Starting from Charing Cross, the 
architectural and fine-art center of the West End, the towers 
of Westminster Palace and the houses of Parliament on your 
right, the National Gallery on your left, the beautiful club¬ 
houses of Pall Mall in your rear, with Nelson, in bronze, look¬ 
ing down upon you from a height of 160 feet, you proceed 
along the Strand, passing Marlborough and Somerset houses 
on your right; through Temple Bar, which marks the city’s 
limits on the west; through Fleet Street and Ludgate Hill, 
emerging into St. Paul’s churchyard, with the Cathedral, Sir 







St Paul's Cathedral, 
London, 


Christopher Wren’s masterpiece, on your right, and the Post 
Office on your left; through Cheapside, notice Bow Church, 
another of Wren’s best works; through Poultry to the great 
financial center, the Exchange, in front of which stands an 
equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, the Mansion 
House, the residence of Lord Mayor, Bank, etc.; down King 
William Street to London Bridge, passing in view of the beau¬ 
tiful monument erected to commemorate the great fire; then 
King William’s statue. London Bridge, from 9 to 11 a. m., is 
one of the greatest sights of the capital. In the immediate 
vicinity hundreds of steamers are landing their living freight 
of merchants, clerks, and others for the city, amid a fearful din 
of ringing bells, steam whistles, shouting carmen and omnibus 
conductors, while the bridge itself is one mass of moving pas¬ 
sengers and vehicles. On your left is Billingsgate (who has 
not heard of that famous fish market?); next the Custom 
House, then the Tower of London, below which are St. Cath¬ 
erine’s Docks, then the celebrated London Docks, the vaults of 
which are capable of holding 60,000 pipes of wine, and water- 
room for 300 sail of vessels. The Pool commences just below 
the bridge; this is where the colliers discharge their cargoes of 
coal. The city of London derives large revenues from a tax 
of 13 pence per ton levied on all coal landed. On the left, 
or upper side of the bridge, notice the famous “ Fishmon¬ 
ger’s Hall,” belonging to one of the richest London corpora¬ 
tions. Cross the bridge and continue to the Elephant and 
Castle, via Wellington and High streets, passing Barclay & 
Perkins’ famous brewery, Queen’s Bench, Surrey Jail, etc., via 
Great Surrey Street, across Black Friar’s Bridge, along the 
Thames Embankment to the new houses of Parliament. Here 
you see not only the finest edifices in an architectural point of 
view, but in a military, naval, legal, and ecclesiastical point. 
England’s great, alive and dead, are here congregated; the 









Horse Guards, whence the commander-in-chief of the English 
Army issues his orders; the Admiralty; Westminster Halls, 
the Law Courts of England; Westminster Abbey, where 
England’s kings and queens have been crowned from Edward 


the Confessor to the present time, and where many of them lie 
buried. Here, in Whitehall Street, opposite the Horse Guards, 
is the old Banqueting House of the Palace of Whitehall, in front 
of which Charles I was beheaded; through Parliament Street 



to Waterloo Place to Pall Mall, the great club and social center 
of London; St. James Street, past St. James Palace and 
Marlborough House to Buckingham Palace, to Hyde Park 
Corner, to Cumberland Gate, or Marble Arch. Private ^ 
carriages only can enter the park; cabs and 
hackney coaches are not permitted entrance. 

Oxford Street to Regent Street, and down 
Regent (the fashionable shopping street) to 
the starting point, Charing Cross. 

Next a drive to the South western Rail¬ 
way Station, and take the train for Rich- ^ 
mond or Hampton Court, returning by the 
Thames in a boat to Greenwich. This will 
be a most interesting excursion, especially 
if you find a comparatively intelligent boat¬ 
man to explain the different sights on the banks of the 
winding river. 

The following places of interest the traveler should see: 

Antiquarian Society, Somerset House, by letters to the secre¬ 
tary; Apsley House, by order from the Duke of Wellington; 
Bank of England, from 10 to 3, order from a director; British 
Museum, Great Russell Street; Buckingham Palace, Royal 
Stable, and Picture Gallery, order from the Lord Chamberlain’s 
office, and for the stables, to the clerk of the Mews; Charing 
Cross and Charles I Statue; Chelsea Hospital and Chelsea 



m 









Royal Military Asylum, on application; Chriswick Horticul¬ 
tural Gardens, open daily, order from member; Christ’s 
Hospital, Newgate Street, by application to one of the gov¬ 
ernors; College of Surgeons’ Museum, Lincoln’s Inn Fields; 
Covent Garden Market; Crystal Palace, Sydenham, from 
Victoria or London Bridge Station; Custom House and Coal 
Exchange, Lower Thames Street; Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 
Old Kent Road, free; Duke of York’s Column, St. James Park, 
May to September; Dulwich Gallery, Dulwich College; East 
India Museum, Whitehall; Greenwich Hospital, Greenwich; 
Guildhall, King Street, Cheapside; Guy’s Hospital, St. Thomas 
vStreet; Hampton Court Palace, the Picture Gallery, Cardinal 
Wolsey’s Hall, parks and gardens, free; a small fee is usually 
paid on entering the vinery; Highgate Cemetery, Highgate, 
free; House of Parliament, by ticket, on application at the 
Lord Great Chamberlain’s office, near Victoria Tower; Hyde 
Park and Rotten Row; Institution of Civil Engineers, Great 
George Street, Westminster; Kensington Gardens; Kensington 
Museum. This museum contains the cartoons of Raphael, the 
Vernon and Sheep-shanks galleries of paintings, and the Gov¬ 
ernment School of Design; Kew Botanical Gardens; King’s 
College, Somerset House; Lambeth Palace, by order from the 
Archbishop of Canterbury; London Docks; Mansion House, 
small fee to the attendant when Lord Mayor is absent; Mint, 
Tower Hill, order from the master of the mint; National Gal¬ 
lery, Trafalgar Square; Royal Horticultural Gardens, South 
Kensington; Royal Institution Museum, Albemarle Street. 

Beyond Windsor is Stoke-Pogis, the church which can be 
seen in the dim distance, and about which Gray used to 
wander. 

“ Beneath those rugged elms, the yew-tree shade.” 

You recognize now a deeper significance than ever before in 
the “ solemn stillness of the incomparable elegy.” 


A fortunate way to approach Stratford-on-Avon is by way 
of Warwick and Kenilworth. While these places are not on a 
direct line of travel, the scenes and associations which they 
successively represent are such as to assume a symmetrical 
order, increase in interest and grow to a delightful culmination. 
Every pilgrim to Stratford knows in a general way what he 
will there behold. Shakespearean associations have made the 
place familiar to the world. Yet these associations keep a 
perennial freshness, and are ecpially a surprise to the sight 
and a wonder to the soul. And as you walk the hallowed 
streets of Avon, looking upon the silver stream that mean¬ 
ders through the quaint English town which “ Gentle Will ” 
loved so well, visions will fill the whole region 
round about. Monarchs proud with power or filled 
with anguish, sweet women with eyes of love or 
filled with tearful woe, warriors with serpent 
diadems, defiant of death and hell, will in one 
large procession sweep by as the characters of 
Shakespeare are called up, and he that made them 
so “ but a handful of dust in yonder crypt, is an angel 
beyond the stars.” 

“ Like the English sea,” writes Elizabeth Bisland, “the English 
land swarms with phantoms — the folk of history, of romance, of 
poetry and fiction. They troop along the roads, prick across 
the fields, look over the hedges, and peer from every window. 
We hear the clang of their armor, see the waving of their ban- 



Westminst- r Abbey 
London. 


ncrs, their voices ring in the frosty winter air, their horses’ hoof- 
beats sound along the paths. Without regard to time or period, 
to reality or non-reality, they come in hosts to welcome me — 
to say, ‘And so you, too, have come to join us. We have 
waked to greet you. We are the ghosts of England’s past.’ ” 

Of rural England much might be written, much that might 
prove interesting to the tourist and the reader of this “ girdle 


book.” To those who love to see nature humanized and her 
spontaneous beauties molded by the hand of man and blended 
with his work, England remains the most beautiful country in 
the world. The beauty of English scenery is a set-off against 
many acres of painted canvas of which other people boast, and 
personal contact with the rural folk will find them easily 
accessible, good-natured, and truly hospitable. 

With London as a base there are many places to which excur¬ 
sions may be made. A week can be spent most delightfully in 
the country of Burns and Scott, and another week in Ireland; we 
may take one of the great Atlantic liners for our home beneath 
the stars and stripes, or sailing from Liverpool in a magnificent 
ship of infinite choice, we leave the Irish coast behind us, Eng¬ 
land with her mighty past and still more mighty present, and 
tempt once more the favor of old Neptune in our sail across the 
sea —our faces turned, as they always have been, to the west. 



Nelson Monument, Trafalgar Square, London. 







THE HOME COMING. 



I 






WHAT which we had looked forward to with so many 
pleasing anticipations is about realized. The good 
ship right safely bears us across the broad Atlantic to 
our homes in the States, and now that the voyage is 
soon to be over one can not help but indulge in a little retro¬ 


spection-just a turning back of the pages of our memory to 
find what was written there in the full flush of enjoyment over 


the strange sights and the still more interesting places we have 
seen in our trip around the planet upon which we live. We find 
our judgment recorded that men are very nearly the same, 
most startlingly alike, whether in the tropics or in the colder 
climates, and that the same love for home existing with the 
American is just as strong with the Arab, Indiaman, or Malay. 
The trip has been pregnant with many a charming scene and 
many a thrilling thought. Our eyes have had long feasts, our 
ears heard strange sounds, our tastes new novelties. The days 
and months have all been good and free from accident, but the 
home-coming is very much dearer. 

Across our bow the long sweep of Long Island’s shore comes 
up out of the ocean, and we can not help shouting with joy 
over this glimpse of Freedom’s land, from which we have been 
so long away. Sandy Hook lighthouse is passed, and soon we 
£’"-fincl oiij^elves in the outer bay of New York. Away to the 



The Battery, New Voik. 









as we enter The Narrows; we sweep past the statue of Liberty 
Enlightening the World, a gift from our French allies across 
the deep, and with thousands of whistles blowing shrill and 
gutteral our ship comes to anchor. The tender takes off the 
passengers, and passing the custom-house officials, we put foot 
into New York City with a deep sense of gratitude that but a 
day or two at best separates us from home and loved ones. We 
take in the principal points of interest about this great city of 
the New World, look in upon Congress and the lawmakers at 
Washington, stop a little while in Baltimore, and then, board¬ 
ing a train for the West, are home with those who have watched 
longingly for our coming. The tramp is over, and the cool 
breezes that sweep over prairie-lands or the dash of Lake 
Michigan’s waters fall upon our ears like the cradle songs of 
childhood. 



Masonic Temple, Chicago. 



















































BOAT AND RAIL TRAVEL. 




T HE traveler around the world, leaving San Francisco 
by steamer, first touches at Yokohama, 4,536 miles of 
the water ride. 

The distance from Yokohama to Kobe is 320 miles 
From Kobe to Hongkong - , 1,363 miles. 

From Hongkong to Singapore, 1,440 miles. 

From Singapore to Colombo, 1,560 miles. 

From Colombo to Calcutta, 1,220 miles. 

From Bombay to Aden, 1,840 miles. 

From Aden to Port Said, 1,400 miles. 

From Port Said to Beirut, 220 miles. 

From Beirut to Smyrna, 678 miles. 

From Smyrna to the Dardanelles, 140 miles. 

From the Dardanelles to Athens, 212 miles. 

From Patras to Brindisi, 241 miles. 

From Calais to Dover, 21 miles across the English Channel. 
These distances are given in nautical miles, and prepared for 
this work by the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey. 
The railroad travel can only be ascertained from native railroad 
guides, which, in many instances, are exhaustive, and afford the 
traveler every opportunity to make close connection with ocean 
steamers. 

The railroad is used quite as much if not more than the 
ocean steamers, and a running itinerary of the railroad trips 
are here indicated: 







Leave by the afternoon train from Yokohama to Tokyo, the 
capital of Japan. 

Leave in the morning by railway for Nikko. 

Leave by evening train from Osaka to Kobe, sailing from 
Kobe to Hongkong. 

From Hongkong an excursion can be made to Canton. 

Passengers wishing to make a tour in Southern India in order 
to visit the celebrated temples can do so by leaving the party 
at Colombo, crossing by steamer to Tuticorin, and thence by 
railway, rejoining the party at Madras. 

Leave by the noon train for Kandy. 

Leave Kandy by the morning train for Colombo, sailing from 
there by steamer for Calcutta. 

From Calcutta leave by the afternoon train on the Eastern 
Bengal Railway for Darjeeling, and returning to Calcutta, after 
a visit to this great hill station, leave by the evening train from 
Howrah station for Benares. 

Lucknow and Cawnpore are on the direct line toward the 
west and are easily accessible by railroad, and after a visit to 
these most interesting places, Agra and Delhi lie just beyond. 

From Jeypore leave by evening train via Ajmere, Ahmeda- 
had, and Surat for Bombay. 

Take steamer from Bombay for Aden. 

Arrive at Ismalia and proceed by railway to Cairo. Here 
excursions can be made to the Pyramids of Sakara and the 
ruins of Memphis and Serapheum. 

Leave Cairo by train for Ismalia, and thence by steamer to 
Port Said and Jaffa for a side trip in Palestine and around to 
Beirut, leaving the latter city by Australian steamer for 
Smyrna. 

Leave Smyrna and sail along the picturesque shores of Asia, 
having in view the mountains about ancient Peragomas, the city 
of one of the Seven Churches. 


Turkey is visited cn tour, the Dardanelles being embraced by 
steamship. 

Leave Constantinople, after an excursion on the Bosporus 
by native steamers, in the evening for Athens. 

Leave Athens by rail for Patras and embark in the evening 
by steamer for Brindisi. 

Upon arrival at Brindisi the traveler may proceed by Meta- 
ponto to Naples. 

Florence and Venice and the beautiful Italian lakes are taken 
as occasion and time permit. 

Leave Venice by express train for Milan. 

Leave Milan by morning train for Lucerne via the vSt. Goth- 
rind Railway; from Paris to Calais; from Calais to Dover by 
steamer, and to London by rail. 

After a time has been spent in England, Ireland, Scotland, 
and Wales, by rail you go to Liverpool or Glasgow, and thence 
by steamer across the Atlantic, 3,000 miles, in any one of the 
innumerable steamship lines being selected for the homeward 
bound voyage to New York. From New York a number of 
very excellent railway systems may be selected which will give 
stop-over privileges at Washington or going on north to 
Boston, Baltimore, and the West. 



Capital, Washington. 


SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL HOTELS IN THE 

UNITED STATES. 


SAN FRANCISCO. 

Baldwin Hotel —Northeast corner Market and Powell Streets; A. and E., 
$i to $5. 

Beresford Hotel — Corner Bush and Stockton Streets; $2.50 to $4. 

The California —Bush Street; A. and E., $1 to $5. 

Commercial Hotel —Montgomery Avenue and Kearney Street; A. and E. 
Grand Hotel — Market and New Montgomery Streets; E., $1 to $5. 

Hotel Lanciiam — Ellis and Mason Streets; A. and E. 

Lick House —Montgomery and Sutter Streets; A. and E., $1 to $5. 
Occidental Hotel — Montgomery Street, near Bush; $3 to $5. 

Palace Hotel — Market and New Montgomery Streets; E., $1.50 to $4; 
A., $3.50 to $6. 

The Pleasanton — Sutter and Jones Streets; $3.50 to $5. 

Russ House —Montgomery and Bush Streets, A. and E., $1 to $5. 

SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. 

Knutsford— A., .$3 to $6. 

Templeton —A., $3 to $4. 

Cullen — A., $2 to $2.50. 

Walker — E., $1 to $2. 


DENVER. 

The Albany — E., $1 to $2; A., $2 to $3. 
American House — $2 to $2.50. 

The Brown Palace Hotel — A. and E., $3 to $5. 
The Colfax — $2 to $3. 

Glenarn Hotel — A. and E., $2 to $3. 

Hotel Broadway — A. and E., $2.50 to $4. 
Windsor Hotel — A., $2.50 to $4. 


OMAHA. 


Millard — A., $3 to $5. 

Paxton — A., $3 to $5. 

Murray — A., if3 to $4.50. 

Henshaw’s —E., $1 to $3. 

CHICAGO. 

The Auditorium — Congress, Wabash and Michigan Avenues; A. and E., 
$1 to $5. 

Briggs House— 5th Avenue and Randolph Street; E., $1 and upwards. 

Clifton House —Wabash Avenue and Monroe Street; A., $2 to $2.50. 

Gore’s Fire Proof Hotel — Clark Street; E., sfi and upwards. 

Great Northern Hotel — Corner Dearborn and Jackson Streets, A. and 
E., $1 to $5. 

Hotel Metropole —Michigan Avenue and 22d Street; A. and E.,$i and 
upwards. 

Leland Hotel — Jackson Street and Michigan Avenue; A., $2 to $3.50. 

The Lexington Hotel —Michigan Boulevard and 22d Street; A. and E., 
$1 and upwards. 

Palmer House — State and Monroe Streets; A. and E., $1 and upwards. 

Sherman — Clark and Randolph Streets; A., $3 to $5. 

Tremont House — Lake and Dearborn Streets; A., $2.50 to $3.50. 

Victoria — Van Buren Street and Michigan Avenue; A., $3 to $5. 

The Wellington — Wabash Avenue and Jackson Street; E., $2 and 
upwards. 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 

Arlington Hotel — Vermont Avenue, corner H Street, opposite President’s 
Mansion; $5. 

The Cochran — 14th and K Streets. 

Ebbitt House — F Street, corner 14th Street; .$2.50 to $4. 

Hotel Arno — Corner 16th and I Streets; A., $3 to $5; E., $1 upwards. 

Metropolitan Hotel — 613 Pennsylvania Avenue; $2 to $4. 

National Hotel —Pennsylvania Avenue, corner 6th Street; A., $2.50 to 
$4; E., if 1 and upwards. 

The Normandie — McPherson Square and I Street; A. and E., $5 and 
upwards. 

Riggs House—O pposite the Treasury; A., $3 to if5. 

W11 lard’s Hotel —14th and Pennsylvania Avenue; E., $1 and upwards; 
A., $3 and upwards. 


BALTIMORE. 


Altamont —Eutaw Place; A., $2.50 to $4; E., to $2.50. 

The Carrollton — Light and Baltimore Streets; $2.50 to $4. 

Hotel Rennert — Liberty and Saratoga Streets; E. 

Maltby House —182 W. Pratt; A. and E. 

Mount Vernon Hotel —West Monument Street; E., $1 and upwards. 
The Stafford — Charles Street; E., $1.50 and upwards. 


PHILADELPHIA. 

The Aldine — 1914 Chestnut Street; A., $3.50 to $6; E., $i to $5. 

The Continental — Chestnut Street, corner South 9th; $3 to $4. 

Girard House —9th Street, corner Chestnut; $3. 

Green’s Hotel — Sth and Chestnut; E., $1 to $1.50. 

Hotel Bellevue —Walnut and South Broad Streets; E., $2 and upwards. 
Hotel Hanover —12th and Arch Streets; $2 and upwards. 

Hotel Walton — Broad and Locust Streets; E. 

Hotel Lafayette — 198 South Broad Street; A. and E., $1 and upwards. 
The Imperial — nth and Filbert Streets; E., $1 and upwards. 

The Stenton —Broad and Spruce Streets, $1 and upwards. 

Stratford — Broad and Walnut Streets; E., $1 and upwards. 

Windsor House —1217-29 Filbert Street; A., $2; E., 75 cents to $1. 

NEW YORK. 

Albemarle Hotel —Broadway, 5th Avenue and 24th Street, $1 and 
upwards. 

Astor House — Broadway, Barclay, and Besey Streets; E., $1 and upwards. 
Bartholdi Hotel — Broadway and 23d Street; E., $2 and upwards. 
Broadway Central Hotel — 667 Broadway; E.,$i to $2; A., $2.50 to $3.50. 
The Buckingham — 5th Avenue and 50th Street; E., sRi and upwards. 

Fifth Avenue Hotel —Broadway, 5th Avenue, 23d and 24th Streets; A., 
$1 and upwards. 

Gilsey House — Broadway and 29th Street; E., $2 and upwards. 

Grand Union Hotel —42d Street, opposite Grand Central Depot; E., $1 
and upwards. 

Grenoble Hotel —56th and 57th Streets, and 7th Avenue; E., $1 and 
upwards. 


Hoffman House — Broadway and 25th Street; E., $2 and upwards. 
Holland House — 5th Avenue and 30th Street; E., $1 and upwards. 
Imperial Hotel — Broadway and 32d Street; E., $1 and upwards. 
Langham Hotel —657 5th Avenue, .$1 and upwards. 

Marlborough Hotel — Broadway and 36th Street; A. and E., $1 and 
upwards. 


Metropole Hotel —Broadway, 41st and 42d Streets. 

Murray Hill Hotel —Park Avenue, between 40th and 41st Streets; 
A. and E., $1 and upwards. 

The Netherlands- 5th Avenue and 59th Street; A., $5 and upwards; E., 
$2 and upwards. 

Normandy Hotel —3SU1 Street and Broadway; E., $2 and upwards. 

Park Avenue Hotel — Park Avenue and 33d Street; A. and E. 


The Plaza— 5th Avenue, sSth and 59th Streets; A. and E. 

Renaissance Hotel— 10 W. 43d Street, $1 and upwards. 

Savoy Hotel —5th Avenue and 59th Street; A. and E. 

The Sherwood — 44th Street and 5th Avenue; $4 and upwards. 

The Waldorf— 5th Avenue and 33d Street; A., $2 and upwards. 
Westminster Hotel — 16th Street and Irving Place, S3.50 and upwards. 


BOSTON. 


Adams House—551 Washington Street; E., $1 and upwards. 

The Brunswick — Boylston Street; A. and E., $5. 

Copley’s Square Hotel —Huntington Avenue and Exeter Street; 

to $7; E., $1.50 and upwards. 

Hotel Vendome —Commonwealth Avenue, $5. 

Parker House —School Street; E., $1 and upwards. 

Quincy House —Brattle Square; A. and E.,$3 to $5. 

The Thorndike Hotel —Corner Boylston and Church Streets; E 
upwards. 


A., $3.50 


$1 and 


Uni ted States Hotel —Beach and Lincoln 


Streets; 


A., $1.50 to $3.50; 


E., $ 1 to $2. 

Young’s Hotel —Washington Court and Court Square; E.,$i and upwards. 


A. American Plan. 

A. and E. American and European Plan. 
E. European Plan. 















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































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